[pianotech] binding keys etc

[Paul McCloud]

Hi, Marshall:
    Protek lubricant doesn't leave any reside for dust to accumulate.  Some techs use Liquid Wrench, which also has volatile solvents that evaporate.  They will cut thru rust.  Stinky stuff, though.  If the rust is bad enough to risk breaking, it will break anyway so don't stress about it.  You can rub the rust off with polita cake, but you won't get the rust that's around the bridge pins, hitch pins, tuning pins, etc.  
    The stack screws should be tightened in a sequence that keeps it in place.  If the screw hole is vertical, not at an angle, tighten those first.  If your screw holes is at an angle, it could push the stack off a little bit.  If the keyframe is well supported, it probably won't matter whether you start from the center or from the ends.  
    It is certainly possible that the keyframe is too far back, but that's what the cheek blocks are supposed to do, as well as dags in the action cavity.  One possibility is that the keyframe isn't sitting down on the keybed for some reason, such as riding up on the shifting lever.  Check to see that the keyframe moves as designed when you press the unacorda pedal.  Some aren't designed to move, but you know that.  It could be that the dampers aren't regulated properly and the underlevers are sitting too low for the key ends to slide underneath.  Not likely, but...   Perhaps you left something on the keybed before you slid the action in.  
    I'm sure you'll discover the problem when you get there.  
    Good luck.    
    Paul McCloud
    San Diego


----- Original Message ----- 
From: Marshall Gisondi 
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Sent: 06/26/2011 12:11:14 PM 
Subject: [pianotech] binding keys etc


Thanks everyone for helpful ideas/insight.  I did notice that when the action was out that if you hit a key the hammer rises up very quickly as well. What are you thoughts on puttin on the stack, screws go in a certain sequence or it doesn't matter?  I've heard both sides.  
 
 Also when the action was in, some of the dampers acted odd as if they were catching somewhere. I had to gently pull them up and down by hand to free them.  Could the action be in too far?  This customer is almost 2 hours from where I live, so time is always an issuse when I arrive. this is partly why I have to return to try and tune this old thing lol.  Strings seem rusty as well, so if anyone has ideas on how to keep any strings from going during a pitch raise that would be great. 
 
I'm familiar with bumping the tuning lever in the flat direction to free rust.  I was definitly advised against lubricating strings by some I know from the school.  Lubricnts tend to allow dust to adhere to the strings.  I do this on occasion which I know the school woudl disagree with me, but I'll bring the pitch up gradually if it's really low.
 
Well sorry for the rambling, but this pinao is causing me some anxiety. 
Marshall
 


Marshall Gisondi Piano Technician
Marshall's Piano Service
pianotune05 at hotmail.com
215-510-9400
www.phillytuner.com 
Graduate of The School of Piano Technology for the Blind www.pianotuningschool.org Vancouver, WA
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