Will, thanks for taking the time to prepare the detailed procedure. I also like the idea of butting the pb to the case and stretcher. That's the way I'll do it. Al -------------------------------------------------- From: "William Truitt" <surfdog at metrocast.net> Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 9:31 AM To: <pianotech at ptg.org> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Restringing with original pinblock > Hi Al: > > I've done it both ways over the years, and I think that fitting the two > pieces separately is by far the easiest way to do it. I would make the > bass > capping piece first, fit it to the flange as well as the underside of the > plate, leaving it a bit too thick at first. Then I would fit the larger > bottom piece to the face flange and the underside of the tenor and treble > section of the plate. Then joint down the bottom of the bass capping > piece > until the larger piece contacts the underside of the plate fully. Remove > the pieces, drill 4 indexing holes for bridge pins into the bottom of the > bass capping piece, place the bass piece onto the inverted plate > underside. > Now you will carefully press the larger pinblock piece against the plate > flange as you press upward into the indexing pins. (Actually, I wack it > with a rubber mallet). Remove, drill out the holes, and clamp the two > pieces together after applying glue. Proceed as usual from there. > > If I am visualizing your block correctly, this could be reinstalled as a > fully fitted pinblock where it butts the sides of the case and is glued to > the stretcher - if you have indexed the plate and pinblock location prior > to > removal of both. I do this with locater pins drilled through the plate > into > the pinblock before teardown, and have made many a new pinblock for a > piano > that was fully fitted, where it had been a floater before. It's not that > much more work, and will strengthen the mounting of the pinblock to the > rim > sides and the stretcher. Whether there is an acoustic benefit to doing > that > is questionable. > > Mark Perry brought up the idea of using a carving duplicator machine to > duplicate this or the more complex two or four piece Chickering pinblocks. > This might be of value if the original block(s) were well mated to the > plate, which they often are not. Even if it were well fit, I would not > trust the duplicator to get the screw holes in exactly the right place. > With the two or four piece blocks, these are machine screws going into a > threaded hole in the plate - so there is almost no fudge factor for > location > of screw holes. You would likely find that you would have to enlarge the > holes in the pinblock to make it work. Better to simply use dowel centers > set into the screw holes in the plate to index the new holes in the > pinblock. > > Will > > > -----Original Message----- > From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On > Behalf > Of Al Guecia/AlliedPianoCraft > Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 8:39 AM > To: pianotech at ptg.org > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Restringing with original pinblock > > Will, this is a one piece pinblock where the bass section is thicker than > the tenor and treble. It shouldn't be a big problem to duplicate. I have > two > > approaches I could take. I could get a pinblock the thickness of the bass > section and route down the tenor and treble, or get one the thickness of > the > > t & t and add a layer of maple to the bass section. If I can get my hands > on > > a suitable piece of maple, I think the latter would be a better choice. > Most > > of my rebuildings have been Steinways and M&H, this is my first Chickering > pinblock. > > Al > > > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "William Truitt" <surfdog at metrocast.net> > Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 4:47 PM > To: <pianotech at ptg.org> > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Restringing with original pinblock > >> It's not possible on any of the two or four piece double decker >> Chickering >> pinblocks that I have seen or rebuilt. Because the machine screws go >> through the pinblock into a threaded hole in the plate, are surrounded by >> plate flanges on all four sides (most notably between the back of the >> block >> and the stretcher), in conjunction with the struts at the ends being in >> the >> way, it would not be possible, and would serve no practical value. >> >> Al, have you done this style of Chickering pinblock before? >> >> Will Truitt >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On >> Behalf >> Of Mike Spalding >> Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 9:38 AM >> To: pianotech at ptg.org >> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Restringing with original pinblock >> >> Al, >> >> If it's at all possible/practical, try to find a way to anchor the >> pinblock to the case. All in the spirit of playing it safe. Others >> with some actual Chickering experience may be able to suggest how... >> >> Mike >> >> Al Guecia/AlliedPianoCraft wrote: >>> >>> The upside (not performance wise) it that it's just attached to >>> the plate and has no connection to the case. Even the low end >>> pianos I've done are screwed into the case. Go figure. >>> >> >> >> > > >
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