Epoxy for separated pinblock, or Titebond (I,II or III) ???

[Euphonious Thumpe]

I didn't even check the pitch. After putting my thumb
down the crack, I just figured it was best to let the
tension down, and start repairs.
Thumpe

P.S. We took the action out for inpection, and tried
to put it back in a 1/2 ghour later. Wouldn't fit. By
then, the posts had moved (?) 1/16 lower, it seems,
and the brackets wouldn't slide in!!!!! We quick put
some clamps on the thing so it wouldn't get worse,
while the tension was lowered! 


--- John Ross <jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca> wrote:

> I am tempted to believe that the block was not
> pulled together before the 
> bolts were added. I have never seen one I repaired
> come apart again.
> I use carriage bolts, and intentionally imbed them
> in the wood, then they 
> don't turn. I have just used regular glue.
> The bolts would not 'stretch', they would break, if
> the tension were too 
> much. Especially 1/2".
> The person was probably just using the bolts, to
> pull it together, or just 
> make sure it didn't get worse.
> Clamps should definitely be used to close the gap,
> before the holes are 
> drilled.
> Just as a matter of interest, how far down in pitch
> was the piano?
> John Ross
> Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
> jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Euphonious Thumpe" <lclgcnp at yahoo.com>
> To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 3:08 PM
> Subject: Epoxy for separated pinblock, or Titebond
> (I,II or III) ???
> 
> 
> > Once again, I've seen a case of a "repaired"
> pinblock
> > ( carriage bolts through back, with washers and
> nuts )
> > that has failed.
> >     This time, although the back is rock maple,
> the
> > string tension STILL sucked the nuts and washers
> into
> > the wood so far, that there's a 1/2" gap between
> the
> > pinblock and the back frame!!!
> >     ( Stretching the bolts, too??????? )
> >     So, I'm about to glue it all together. ( With
> #8
> > bolts all the way through, and a thick steel plate
> all
> > along the back that CAN'T get sucked into the
> wood! )
> >     I'm sure it doesn't matter, with the
> > compreghensive arrangement I'm using, which will
> > "sandwich" eveything  together.
> >     But I'm still wondering: what's better in an
> old
> > glue joint ???????
> > Epoxy: which is very strong but will not (
> perhaps)
> > bind with the old glue?
> > OR
> > One of the Titebond glues, which WILL. ( Because
> > they're both water soluble. )
> > Thumpe
> >
> > P.S. "Test Tip":  Run a sample strip of all your
> > favorite glues on the lid of one of those plastic
> > salad trays, mark them, then peel them off and
> play
> > with them after a  week or so. You can see whixch
> are
> > tough, brittle, flexible, waterproof, etc.
> > --- Michael Kurta <mkurta at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> >
> >>
> >
> > Euphonious Thumpe
> >
> >
> > 
> >
>
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> 


Euphonious Thumpe


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