Original pin block

David Love davidlovepianos at comcast.net
Tue Jun 17 09:35:14 MDT 2008


I think that's fine.  I just don't want the pin to extend down below the
bottom of the original pin.  If you look down inside the hole you can see a
small shelf where the original pin stopped.  Forcing a longer pin (and
larger) pin into that shelf can create a situation where the pin is
extremely tight at the very bottom of the hole and that can make for poor
rendering.  Sorting the pins as you mention I think is a good idea.

 

David Love
davidlovepianos at comcast.net
www.davidlovepianos.com 

-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Jon Page
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 8:17 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Original pin block

 

I was referring to your suggestion (and Jon Page's) about increasing length
of the pin to 2 1/2".  The original Steinway pins I'm extracting are 2 3/8".
The "typo" in the original text is probably an HTML conversion problem.  I
still believe you should stay with the original length when increasing the
diameter for the reasons stated.  People can, however, do whatever they
want.

 

I install a 2 1/2" pin on single string notes , as I said and 2 3/8" on the
rest. Reason being the tension and width of the coil. The larger diameter
single string core wire can leave a lesser amount of pin in the block if you
keep the bottom of the coil off the plate consistent with the treble.

 

In general, the single strings' pins become loose before the other pins
(YMMV), so this extra length gives them the edge they need. I do this on new
blocks too.

 

Mic'ing the pins helps for even torque too, with the narrower diameters in
the treble.

There can be four or five different sizes of pins within a set; that's .001"
or .002" either

side of the spec diameter. I discard the out-of-round ones.

-- 


Regards,

Jon Page

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