Hi Jon: You mentioned that you replaced only the bass and tenor section hitchpins with a vertical hitchpin. Why not the whole enchilada? Am I corrected in surmising that the piano on which you left the treble hitch pins alone had rear duplexes? If so, how did you set bearing combining the two techniques? What was your reasoning in keeping the rear duplexes? I have done one set of bass bridge hitch pins changing to a vertical hitch pin. I followed Ron Nossaman's advice and sheared off the old hitch pins with a cold chisel. Took all of 10 minutes once I got going. Then center punched and drilled the vertical holes with the plate under my drill press. Once I overcame the fear factor, it was actually pretty simple and straightforward. Will Truitt -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Jon Page Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 7:11 AM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Hitch Pin Replacement Question I've done only one hitch pin replacement so far but limited to the tenor section and bass. The tenor was easy by punching the pins out from underneath but the bass was a problem. Trying to pull them out often resulted in breaking them. This left a jagged surface which needed grinding on the ones which didn't break below the plate surface. Be prepared to go through many bits while drilling. Start smaller and work your way up to the desired diameter. The tenor section was drilled at an angle so I needed to force in MarineTex paste epoxy from the bottom, let it cure and drill straight down from the top to install vertical hitch pins. Some of the plate risers will have to be ground for bearing clearance. You may or may not be surprised at what factory surfacing produced, I usually find it too high in the low tenor for a few inches on the right side of the lower strut. I am a fan of vertical hitch pins. -- Regards, Jon Page
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC