Soundboard cracks under long bridge

[Greg Newell]

William,
         Jon uses a made up "I" beam as a rail which sits upon or 
underneath the rim providing clamping support for a go bar type system. The 
go bars are in the form of bolts which are screwed into dowels which expand 
to fill the space between what you are clamping and the "I" beam itself. 
This then allows a god application of epoxy eliminating the need to add 
spruce shims which really don't seem to work anyway. While thinking about 
the shimming procedure one time a scripture came to mind. The one about new 
wine in old wine skins. (I could look it up if you like.) Anyway the 
thought was that new shims in an old board might not be such a good idea 
after all. Jon's idea eliminates that but moreover gives a way to clamp 
down any delaminations between either the bridge and board or the board and 
ribs. One of those "wish I'd thought of that" ideas. I'm at a different 
computer right now. If you like I can forward Jon's email to you or you 
could ask Jon for the pics if these words don't describe it adequately.

Best,
Greg


At 08:47 AM 3/25/2005, you wrote:
>Greg,
>
>And the system is.........................
>
>Respectfully,
>William R. Monroe
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell@ameritech.net>
>To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
>Sent: Friday, March 25, 2005 7:40 AM
>Subject: Re: Soundboard cracks under long bridge
>
>
> > Terry,
> >          Jon Page just forwarded to me a system which I believe will cure
> > the problem. Thanks to one an all for you responses.
> >
> > Greg Newell
> >
> >
> >
> > At 08:28 AM 3/25/2005, you wrote:
> > >Sound like a perfect situation for the epoxy fill. I think maybe Del has
> > >some PTG Journal articles describing a technique - maybe someone else -
> > >maybe check the archives.With epoxy you can get all the way under the
>bridge
> > >also (squoosh/moosh application technique).
> > >
> > >I haven't tried it, but the process involves taping one side of crack (to
> > >act as a mold of sorts) and filling other side with thickened epoxy. Make
> > >sure the crack/epoxy is prepared for maximum adhesion (I would seriously
> > >consider the West System Two-Step Method). You can color West System
>epoxy
> > >to come pretty close to spruce.
> > >
> > >Terry Farrell
> > >
> > >
> > > > Naturally this is what I would have done if the crack did not meander
>as
> > >it
> > > > does. No where near a straight line.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > At 08:32 PM 3/24/2005, you wrote:
> > > > >Why not just do a Spurlock-type shim job right up to both sides of
>the
> > > > >bridge? If there is a small area where the bridge is not glued to the
> > >panel,
> > > > >put some glue in there and block up the panel from behind and go bar
>on
> > > > >top - or use a rib gluing boat before shimming (but instead of gluing
>on
> > >a
> > > > >rib you will be gluing on the bridge).
> > > > >
> > > > >Make sense?
> > > > >
> > > > >Terry Farrell
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Dear list members,
> > > > > >          I am faced with a dilemma and would appreciate your
>advice
> > >once
> > > > > > again. I am refinishing a 61" Howard grand and re-stringing with a
>new
> > > > > > block. After strings were removed and the piano sat in the shop
>for a
> > >time
> > > > > > a soundboard crack appeared which migrates under a crook in the
>long
> > > > > > bridge. This could have already been there but not as prominent as
>it
> > >is
> > > > > > now. I'd like to  try and repair this but I question how to go
>about
> > >it.
> > > > > > I've tried removing the buttons and screws that attach the long
>bridge
> > >to
> > > > > > the soundboard hoping that the glue would be loose enough to crack
>it
> > >free
> > > > > > and pivot it out of the way in order to make the repair. (There's
>one
> > > > >screw
> > > > > > way high up in the treble that I just can't get at for love nor
> > >money.)
> > > > > > There is not enough money to replace the board and bridges but it
> > >seems
> > > > > > that the crack will need to be addressed before it goes out. Also,
>in
> > >one
> > > > > > area of the crack that goes beneath the long bridge the soundboard
>is
> > > > > > disconnected from the bridge too, naturally. :-( Any advice?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Greg Newell
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >_______________________________________________
> > > > >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> > > >
> > > > Greg Newell
> > > > Greg's piano Forté
> > > > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> >
> > Greg Newell
> > Greg's piano Forté
> > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> >
> >
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives

Greg Newell
Greg's piano Forté
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net