Soundboard cracks under long bridge

[William R. Monroe]

Greg,

And the system is.........................

Respectfully,
William R. Monroe



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell@ameritech.net>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2005 7:40 AM
Subject: Re: Soundboard cracks under long bridge


> Terry,
>          Jon Page just forwarded to me a system which I believe will cure
> the problem. Thanks to one an all for you responses.
>
> Greg Newell
>
>
>
> At 08:28 AM 3/25/2005, you wrote:
> >Sound like a perfect situation for the epoxy fill. I think maybe Del has
> >some PTG Journal articles describing a technique - maybe someone else -
> >maybe check the archives.With epoxy you can get all the way under the
bridge
> >also (squoosh/moosh application technique).
> >
> >I haven't tried it, but the process involves taping one side of crack (to
> >act as a mold of sorts) and filling other side with thickened epoxy. Make
> >sure the crack/epoxy is prepared for maximum adhesion (I would seriously
> >consider the West System Two-Step Method). You can color West System
epoxy
> >to come pretty close to spruce.
> >
> >Terry Farrell
> >
> >
> > > Naturally this is what I would have done if the crack did not meander
as
> >it
> > > does. No where near a straight line.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > At 08:32 PM 3/24/2005, you wrote:
> > > >Why not just do a Spurlock-type shim job right up to both sides of
the
> > > >bridge? If there is a small area where the bridge is not glued to the
> >panel,
> > > >put some glue in there and block up the panel from behind and go bar
on
> > > >top - or use a rib gluing boat before shimming (but instead of gluing
on
> >a
> > > >rib you will be gluing on the bridge).
> > > >
> > > >Make sense?
> > > >
> > > >Terry Farrell
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Dear list members,
> > > > >          I am faced with a dilemma and would appreciate your
advice
> >once
> > > > > again. I am refinishing a 61" Howard grand and re-stringing with a
new
> > > > > block. After strings were removed and the piano sat in the shop
for a
> >time
> > > > > a soundboard crack appeared which migrates under a crook in the
long
> > > > > bridge. This could have already been there but not as prominent as
it
> >is
> > > > > now. I'd like to  try and repair this but I question how to go
about
> >it.
> > > > > I've tried removing the buttons and screws that attach the long
bridge
> >to
> > > > > the soundboard hoping that the glue would be loose enough to crack
it
> >free
> > > > > and pivot it out of the way in order to make the repair. (There's
one
> > > >screw
> > > > > way high up in the treble that I just can't get at for love nor
> >money.)
> > > > > There is not enough money to replace the board and bridges but it
> >seems
> > > > > that the crack will need to be addressed before it goes out. Also,
in
> >one
> > > > > area of the crack that goes beneath the long bridge the soundboard
is
> > > > > disconnected from the bridge too, naturally. :-( Any advice?
> > > > >
> > > > > Greg Newell
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >_______________________________________________
> > > >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> > >
> > > Greg Newell
> > > Greg's piano Forté
> > > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> > >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
>
> Greg Newell
> Greg's piano Forté
> mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
>
>