Steinway Damper sytem upgrade & redesign

Erwinspiano@aol.com Erwinspiano@aol.com
Sun, 7 Nov 2004 16:38:08 EST


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In a message dated 11/7/2004 10:06:39 AM Pacific Standard Time, Erwinspiano  
writes:

List.
  I thought I'd share some more piano related stuff to  clean out any 
potential political residue lefet over in anyones palate from  last week as my 
penance for irritating some with My uncharacteristic share of  dreaded political OTs 
post.
   

 

I've been modifying many of  old Steinway damper  systems with a variety of 
features which greatly improves its functionability  & adjustability. Many of 
these ideas are not  my own but have found them useful just the same.grin.  
I've been installing the new Renner Back actions fairly routinely which gives  a 
more effective sostenuto usage with the spring loaded tabs & also the  fact 
that individual parts can be taken off for service if necessary without  
disassembling the whole dang damper action I.E. to reglue some flanges  that have 
come unglued or repin a part or two.
   Along with  this I've also found  that a few other modifications which are 
not difficult to execute also  increase performance.
 ! Installing the tray center pivot pin so it is in  line with the underlever 
centers. This requires modifying or making a new  pivot block for at least 
one end.
  Result. 1.This eliminates the disparity of function  in the upstop 
adjustment. Meaning an upstop adjustment is made which is  equally good for pedal lift 
as is it is for individual key lift.
  2. the heavy pedal syndrome is made more normal  by reducing weight & 
friction felt on the pedal & eliminates much of  the damper thumping on the strings 
by less experienced players
  3. Eliminates the severe dipping of the underlevers  when the tray is out 
of adjustment that digs out the key lift felt with extra  friction caused by 
the out of adjustment.
  4. removing wooden or brass pedal pitmans that  (always) squeak. This 
requires drilling an enlarged hole thru the keybed  3/4" or so & installing a 
wooden dowel with 3/4" front punchings glued to  each end & a balance rail pin 
installed and protruding 3/16   inch out of the dowel. The tray & pedal lever are 
drilled to  accommodate the felt & pin  

The  result is a totally quiet squeak-free movement 
5. Install a new set of Modern adjustable pedal rods.  What a blessing. See 
pianotek
 6. Install a capstan as a sustain pedal lever  travel limiter on the bottom 
of the keybed. This removes the archaic block of  felt method formerly 
employed on all Stwy pianos, & others of course &  allows for a precise amount of 
damper lift& lever travel. A nice  feature which keeps the underlevers from 
slamming into the upstop felt  creating those annoying dents which reduce  function.


 7.  relocate tray return springs. In these pianos  either a leaf spring type 
was used in the top treble end of the tray or  in later models a coil spring 
was applied  on the bass end of the  tray causing the tray to warp.

   The new springs are fit between the lever  sections. One is mounted close 
to the pitman which is where it needs to be to  keep the tray from being 
twisted during lift,resulting in a strange array  of damper lift setting problems & 
eventual tray warpage. Some systems  require another mounted between bass and 
tenor sections.
 8. The last thing which is new to me came about because  of a conversation 
with David Love about this. Del had done a tray for him this  way & I'd heard 
about others doing this so...
    I mounted small11/32inch long capstans  under each underlever. This 
allows for a very precise & perfect damper lift  without all the usual futzing and 
straining to move a lever in the flange just  the tiniest fraction of a mm/or 
inch for standard folks.
  The lip of the tray needs to be thinned by about 3  mm to allow for capstan 
head clearance. A quick pass on the table saw does this  in a second. 
  Drill the appropriate size hole for the capstan  shank & press with arbor 
press or Tap in carefully with a hammer with  the tray supported really well
8. Installing the extra wide bichord agraffes from Pianotek on  the lowest 4 
bichords increase the ability of the bichord felt to get between  the large 
bichord bass strings which really improves  damping.
 9 On many pianos, especially longer ones I also find  improved damping by 
using four equally cut pieces of damper felt in the mono-  chord section & on 
the first 2 to 4 bichord notes. This is especially  helpful on longer strings & 
also on smaller  pianos on which I  have had all my mono chords double wrapped 
by the string maker.
  
 
  An Addendum.
   Some later stwys , 1950 ish & later came  without return springs. I've 
learned this the hard way,  ( of course), that these need springs especially in 
the bass. This is my humble  opinion based on failure to damp experience, even 
with proper fitted guide rail  bushings & nicely fit wires, head lift etc.
  These upgraded systems are a huge improvement over the  original equipment 
setup IMHO and are not difficult to do. It does increase  labor time but it's 
worth it
  Hope this is food for thought and comment.
  Dale Erwin

 
 
Erwins Pianos  Restorations 
4721 Parker Rd.
Modesto, Ca 95357
209-577-8397
Rebuilt  Steinway , Mason &Hamlin  Sales
www.Erwinspiano.com

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