Nice Baldwin Pinblock

[Farrell]

Epoxy doesn't make anything moisture proof. It can however greatly retard the rate of moisture penetration. However, it requires several coats to provide an effective moisture barrier - however, some is better than none.

I don't pound plugs. I drill slightly oversize holes - such that the plug will simply drop right in - or maybe with a gentle push - pour in enough epoxy, and push in plug with epoxy overflowing out. The overflow epoxy can be directed into the next holes to be filled, and so on.

I would not be surprised to find that such a plugged block is stronger than a new block.

Terry Farrell
  
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2003 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: Nice Baldwin Pinblock


> Hey Terry,
>     If you are going to all that trouble, I'm sure
> you'll slather epoxy all over the block surface to
> make it moisture-proof, right?
>      Personally, I would not try this approach. Old
> hide glue weakens with humidity swings, and the block
> may be on the verge of delamination, or have some
> internal separation that you can't see that is
> worsened by pounding in the plugs. And you might even
> get "Mad Cow Disease" ( Spongiform encephalopy ) from
> breathing all that hide glue dust you kick up 
> drilling!
>       Thump
> 
> --- Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> > No, I have not cut my own plugs yet. And you have a
> > valid point about questioning the time required. I
> > would never try to resurect a block that was
> > delaminating. In this particular case, the block
> > looks like new and was fit well. 
> > 
> > Part of my twisted inefficient thinking revolves
> > around not wasting good wood. How big a hole did
> > your plug cutter make? I'm assuming I can cut the
> > 200-some-odd plugs out of half a pinblock. That way
> > I would save half a block. If the plug cutter cuts a
> > large hole and cutting the plugs is going to use a
> > whole block, then I would DEFINATELY change
> > direction QUICKLY and simply replace the block. I
> > actually laid awake a while last night wondering if
> > plugs was a stupid idea (from a time perspective - I
> > am confident that stucturally, epoxy-installed plugs
> > are excellent).
> > 
> > Please - how big a hole did your plug cutter cut (I
> > assume the plug it cut was 1/2")?
> > 
> > Terry Farrell
> >   
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Caroline Hull" <hullfam5@yahoo.com>
> > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2003 11:49 PM
> > Subject: Re: Nice Baldwin Pinblock
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> > > I plugged a pinblock this summer and it took
> > probably two or three times longer than just
> > replacing the pinblock.  By the time I purchased a
> > $60 plug cutter, spent time making the plugs, bought
> > pinblock material, drilled the holes for the plugs,
> > epoxyed them in, - it was a $$ losing job.  An
> > additional problem was that it was an open face
> > pinblock, so I had to make a template for
> > redrilling.   Maybe you've done this before and had
> > better success.  
> > > Bob E. Hull
> > >  
> > >  
> > >  Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:I took
> > apart a 1947 Baldwin M grand today. Pinblock was
> > interesting. 5 ply. Much like the Bolduc, only three
> > inner layers were a little thicker (3/8") and the
> > two outer layer were a little thinner, (1/8"). The
> > three inner layers were nicely quarter sawn, and
> > edge glue joints were tounge and groove. Nice block.
> > I think I'll plug rather than replace - save some
> > maple.
> > > 
> > > I thought the block would be morticed or doweled
> > into the rim. Nope. Three big screws through block
> > into rim at treble end and two at bass end. That's
> > all. Not glued to stretcher.
> > > 
> > > Now you know!
> > > 
> > > Terry Farrell
> > > 
> > > _______________________________________________
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> > > 
> > > 
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