Replacing Keytops

[Brian Lawson]

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Hi,
 I use contact glue (like Bostick) with the keys sanded and prepared =
just put on the glue for two octaves of keys at a time, keep the keytops =
joined until after the glue is applied then break and separate them just =
before sticking.=20

Contact glue gives you about 15 -20 before putting the two surfaces =
together and doesn't need clamping other than a squeeze in a vice (with =
some felt to protect). Go on to glue next couple of octaves and then =
have a new second cut file to shape edges, keep that file just for keys.

Allow half a day.

Brian


  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Mickey Kessler=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2003 3:10 AM
  Subject: Replacing Keytops


  Sorry -- some trouble with Eudora -- sent this out a moment ago =
without a subject header.  Sorry for the double-posting.  Hope it works =
this time!

  Hi all,

  I'm considering replacing all the keytops on a PSO owned by my cousin. =
 If this were a really good instrument I'd probably just send the keys =
out to a recovering house (actually, I'd turn the whole thing over to =
somebody who's really into rebuilding, which I'm not), but it's a piece =
of junk -- or rather, an opportunity for learning -- so I want to do it =
for the experience.

  A few questions:

  1.  Reblitz describes a procedure that's based on using contact =
cement.  This scares me; it doesn't allow for much error.  On the other =
hand, if I use more forgiving glue, it'll require clamping, which the =
Reblitz procedure seems to preclude (he says to shim a straightedge to =
the keyslip in order to line up all the keyfronts exactly the same).  =
Can anybody recommend a better procedure that will also ensure =
uniformity?  And while we're on the subject, what's the best glue to =
use?

  2.  The supply houses sell a variety of keytops.  Any preferences =
regarding one-piece tops and fronts as opposed to two-piece?  I'm =
thinking now that I'll use the one-piece.  Am I asking for trouble? =
Would I learn more by using two-piece?  Should I get thick or thin or =
doesn't it matter?  Do the one-piece tops require clamping in two =
directions?

  3.  Do I need to figure on resurfacing all the wood?  Can I do that =
without the expensive Oslund machines that Reblitz describes?  How bad =
must the surface be before it should be resurfaced?  I'm guessing the =
thick plastic tops will take up a lot of unevenness -- am I wrong?

  4.  Any thoughts about how much time I should allot for the job?

  Thanks to everybody out there for sharing all your knowledge.  I've =
learned more from this group than from just about any other source.  The =
generosity of this profession is truly admirable.

  Mickey Kessler
  PTG Assoc.



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