Replacing Keytops

[Mickey Kessler]

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Sorry -- some trouble with Eudora -- sent this out a moment ago without a 
subject header.  Sorry for the double-posting.  Hope it works this time!

Hi all,

I'm considering replacing all the keytops on a PSO owned by my cousin.  If 
this were a really good instrument I'd probably just send the keys out to a 
recovering house (actually, I'd turn the whole thing over to somebody who's 
really into rebuilding, which I'm not), but it's a piece of junk -- or 
rather, an opportunity for learning -- so I want to do it for the experience.

A few questions:

1.  Reblitz describes a procedure that's based on using contact 
cement.  This scares me; it doesn't allow for much error.  On the other 
hand, if I use more forgiving glue, it'll require clamping, which the 
Reblitz procedure seems to preclude (he says to shim a straightedge to the 
keyslip in order to line up all the keyfronts exactly the same).  Can 
anybody recommend a better procedure that will also ensure uniformity?  And 
while we're on the subject, what's the best glue to use?

2.  The supply houses sell a variety of keytops.  Any preferences regarding 
one-piece tops and fronts as opposed to two-piece?  I'm thinking now that 
I'll use the one-piece.  Am I asking for trouble? Would I learn more by 
using two-piece?  Should I get thick or thin or doesn't it matter?  Do the 
one-piece tops require clamping in two directions?

3.  Do I need to figure on resurfacing all the wood?  Can I do that without 
the expensive Oslund machines that Reblitz describes?  How bad must the 
surface be before it should be resurfaced?  I'm guessing the thick plastic 
tops will take up a lot of unevenness -- am I wrong?

4.  Any thoughts about how much time I should allot for the job?

Thanks to everybody out there for sharing all your knowledge.  I've learned 
more from this group than from just about any other source.  The generosity 
of this profession is truly admirable.

Mickey Kessler
PTG Assoc.



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