shellac sealer on plate yes yes yes

[Erwinpiano]

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To Rodger,Diane ,Terry  and list

    Thanks for those of you who recently responded to my query on plate =
finishing ,sandblasting and such.
    After sandblasting a rusty Mason A plate that also had a automotive =
finish gone astray partly do to technical difficulties on my part, I was =
able to build it back up with a rust inhibitor called por-15.  I =
followed this with a tie coat primer of the same brand.  Both of these =
were said by the factory rep. to be compatible with my usual =
applications of acrylic lacquer sanding sealer and clear coats.  They =
were not!   As I was building up the sealer I was starting to get some =
slight crinkling of the under coat(tie coat primer) Which by the way is =
a high tech new fangled polyurethane coating.The thinner was penetrating =
and causing a problem which was not supposed to be possible.
    Wanting desperately to save all that hard work you all made a =
completely logical suggestion to seal it with shellac.  I thought you =
all were brilliant . Shellac has completely dis-similar solvents.  I did =
a final sanding of the sealer ,which was no really smooth ,and applied =
the shellac. Let that dry 8hrs. in 100 degree heat(calif. style) and =
then resprayed another final coat of the sealer and every thing is flat  =
and smooth,ready for the gold and clear coats.
     In my last post to Diane I had said that some times sandblasting is =
necessary to remove original base coats gone bad. And as things go I =
just started on a stwy A plate that has had an after factory =
coating(cheap paint job of unknown origin) that brittalized everything =
done to the japanning( the black under coat) I have scraped much of it =
off (instead off blasting) off in an effort to save the japanning.  Some =
times there just ain't no easy way.
   So I will scrape sand and seal with shellac then primer and sand till =
smooth.  Thanks for the help.

      Best      Dale Erwin

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