Jim: I, too have recently seen an S&S model A 1898 purchased for 20000 about four years ago that was pretty sad. I won't go into the details, but what bugs me is that it was sold by a dealer who specializes in fine handcrafted pianos. I see techs who advertise "Steinway specialist" or "Steinways only" and I believe that helps to perpetuate the notion that a Steinway of any condition is worth Zillions of rubles and any other piano regardless of its quality is not worth hauling home. I'm not trying to bad- mouth Steinway in particular, but I find them harder to work on than some others and yes they are good pianos but not that good so you should get 3 or 4 times what you can get for some other good brand. I've been trying to sell a Hardman 1908 6'10" grand that I rebuilt???? Maybe I should say I put it in very good condition. I'm told that a Steinway B in this condition would bring 30-35 thou, but so far I've not had any response. It is now on consignment for 12 thou and the dealer is now telling me the real wholesale value is more like 8 thou. I think he's preparing me for the worst. I'd appreciate sugestions on how to market a decent piano that is not a Steinway out of my garage. It's the best piano I've ever worked on and I don't want to give it away. I've considered a mailing list of techs, and teachers and offering a 3% referral fee. Any thoughts on selling? I guess I'm better at buying pianos than selling them. Thank you all in advance. Carl Meyer Santa Clara. Ca. JIMRPT@AOL.COM wrote: > > Et Al; > I thought that I had seen everything that could be done half er...way and in > creative misapplication of techniques.......as usual I was wrong. > > I evaluated a S&S model 'M'(I think, I did not measure) re-something or > other...certainly rebulid, refurbish or remanufacture don't fit!! (keep in > mind that the customer traded a 5 year old Kawai 6'something and 10,000 > dollars to obtain this beauty........... > > Working from the key bed up: > New front rail felts...no regulating punchings 'period' under the naturals > and 1 Thick card under each of the sharps. > New keytops, one piece front and top, untrimmed/filed/fitted. > No new key bushings. > Corroded capstans. > New short backchecks, unleveled and or regulated. > Full set of new Renner S&S style whips, unregulated and installed bass > ackwards, i.e., No. 1 was on No. 88 and vice versa............but they 'were' > in order :-) > Old hammers/shanks/knuckles. > (NOTE: I believe these hammers are from a model 'A', or some such, as there > are > obviously 26 bass hammers installed on a 20 bass note scale! The first six > hammers in the bottom tenor section are what normally would be the last six > on a 26 note bass scale. Each of these six hammers have had their original > shank hole plugged and a new shank hole drilled sorta close.........the tails > have not been cut off but the hammers have been filed drastically to fit in > their new location. If I had to guess I would say that all 88 were original > hammers 80 or more years ago!) > Hammers are past the point of filability (is that a word?:) > Hammers hit the strings but that is the end of any sembelance of regulation. > New pinblock..........does not even touch the stretcher, almost hidden by the > plate between plate and stretcher, muchless being glued and doweled. > Tuning pins at various stage of completion as to tight coils/beckets/level. > New treble strings with OLD BASS STRINGS!!!!!!! > Plate has been rebronzed and a cute little hitch pin punching adorns each > hitch pin.................. > No string braid at all, anywhere. > etc., etc., etc................... > BUT............ the dampers work well !!!!! > > How can these people get away with this kinda stuff? If I did a likewise > re-something or other I would be UNDER a jail somewhere!!! > > What would you do, would you have done, if presented with the above > instrument? I'll tell you what I did/am doing when y'all have had a chance > to suggestionate. :-) > Jim Bryant (FL)
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