Hi Carol. Your input sounds real interesting for a "quickie" repair. You state that you use "Marine Resin". What is that. Polyester/Fiberglas resin? Do you feel polyester (assuming that is what you are using) has some advantage over epoxy resin? Thanks. Terry Farrell Piano Tuning & Service Tampa, Florida mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carol Beigel" <carolrpt@hotmail.com> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 1:28 PM Subject: Re: Bridge Pin/Epoxy Question > If the piano was not going to be restrung, the strings were loosened and > moved to the side to avoid getting any marine resin on them. The beauty of > this method was the soldering iron got the bridge pins hot, and the marine > resin slurped down the sides of the pins and deep into the bridge, filling > the cracks, too! If by some chance the pins were not hot enough, or the > resin puddled next to the pins, a razor blade could be used to clean the > bridge after the resin got "gummy". > > Remember, this method was used in reconditioning pianos. If I was > rebuilding, I would make a mylar template of the bridge and recap it using > quarter-sawn maple. I drilled the new holes using a hand-held drill. Once > you get the hang of it, it is more accurate than using a drill press! I > also kept a separate set of drill bits and chisels for only bridge work. > > Carol Beigel > > > >Carol, > >Did you first remove the strings or were you able to get the glue past the > >string? > >Joe Goss > > ________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com > >
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