Tom, I have used this method successfully most of the time for extracting the embedded ends of snapped hammer shanks from the hammer. There is a situation in which it does not work well, however, and that is in the case of old cedar shanks. At least in the eastern part of the country, these old cedar shanks seem to splinter rather than extract neatly. I agree completely that 95% of the time, this method of wallpaper remover, heat, and extraction are the treatment of choice. And for the other 5%, are there some alternatives that work really well? --Wally Wilson, RPT Ravenswood, WV Columbus, OH chapter Tom Cole wrote: > bases-loaded@juno.com wrote: > > > > I am looking for any ideas that will facilitate boring single hammers in > > the customer's home when the shank has broken off bluntly right below the > > hammer head (vertical pianos). > > Mark, > > The best Journal article on the subject appeared in the Feb. 89 issue > (Vertical Shank Replacment, by Fern Henry & Bill Spurlock). Briefly, the > authors describe a way of removing the old shank by drilling a hole in > the remaining shank to receive a drywall screw. After soaking the hole, > the screw is heated to soften the glue and the screw and shank part can > then be extracted with a shank extractor. > > The beauty of this method is that the hole you have just created is > perfectly drilled. It just needs to be cleaned out with a 7/32" drill. > > Tom > > -- > Thomas A. Cole, RPT > Santa Cruz, CA > mailto:tcole@cruzio.com
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