A very precise method, but a bit slow, involves dissolving the glue joint with wallpaper remover/heat and turning in a drywall screw into the broken shank in the head or butt. The drywall screw is heated with a match or lighter. Then with the upright hammer head extractor and the clamp that comes with it extract the broken piece. I have tried this a few times but always go back the 7/32 bit in a handle and eye it. I believe a detailed accounting of this method is in the Journal somewhere. I think it was developed my Margie Williams & Mark Anderson in the Bay Area. David Ilvedson, RPT From: bases-loaded@juno.com To: pianotech@ptg.org Date sent: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 22:54:02 -0500 Subject: in-the-home boring jig Send reply to: pianotech@ptg.org > I am looking for any ideas that will facilitate boring single hammers in > the customer's home when the shank has broken off bluntly right below the > hammer head (vertical pianos). I have trouble precisely reproducing some > of the angles, especially the compound angles. I have been using the > inexpensive adjustable maple jig for years - sometimes successfully, > sometimes less so. > > What have some of you found to be a successful approach to this problem? > I have found that fairly substantial tonal difference can arise when the > angle of the hammer changes, even when the strike point is maintained. > > Any and all suggestions welcomed! > > Mark Potter > bases-loaded@juno.com > David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA ilvey@jps.net
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