Yamaha Spinet

[John Ross]

Hi Clyde,

About the light problem mentioned below.  I found a fibre optic extension
cap, that fits
over my Mag lite, (the size for AA cells).  I can feed that between the
action parts, and illuminates the area, I am interested in.
I got it from one of those tool trucks, that travel around between garages.

Regards,
John M. Ross


----- Original Message -----
From: "Clyde Hollinger" <cedel@supernet.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: Yamaha Spinet


> Jerry,
>
> Answer to question 1:
>
> Yes.  Here is my procedure.  It's tricky, but after learning it I've
> never had to pull out an action to replace the hammer/butt assembly.  I
> only service one Yamaha spinet, and I haven't had to do repairs on it
> yet, so I hope this general procedure will work for that piano.
>
> 1.  Hold the jack out of the way by using a jack holding tool (Schaff
> #129) placing it between the letoff button and the top of the jack ear.
> You may be able to get just a little more working room by moving the
> rubber grommets out of the forks for just the two keys in your immediate
> work area.
>
> 2.  Put the flange screw in a screw holding tool (Schaff #48) and pull
> back on the cable button so the screw will stay in position.
>
> 3.  Getting light at the right place is always a problem for me, so I
> hold a small flashlight between my teeth (not very professional but I
> haven't come up with anything better yet).  I can aim it right where I
> need it.  Lower the repaired hammer/flange assembly into place.  Get the
> flange into position using any tools that can help you swivel it to
> where it belongs.
>
> 4.  With slight downward/backward pressure the flange can stay where you
> want it long enough to pick up your screw holding tool, which already
> has the screw in it, and wheedle it back through the jungle of other
> parts and into the screw hole.  All you really need to do is turn it
> enough to get it started.
>
> 5.  Carefully remove the screw holding and jack holding tools and  and
> use a long screwdriver to tighten the part.  Make sure it is aligned
> properly before doing the final tightening.  If there is a bridle strap
> to deal with, that can be tricky also, but I get it back on the wire
> with the use of a sturdy needlenose pliers.
>
> Answer to question 2:
>
> Sooner or later you will need to remove an entire spinet action.  I push
> the grommets off the forks with a screwdriver unless they have the
> larger nuts, in which case I can just do it with my fingers.  Some are
> easier to remove and some are harder.  I ran into a couple where the
> forks had rusted underneath the grommets and also some where the
> grommets had become petrified and broke into pieces when I tried to
> remove them.  Get some spares; a whole set of donut grommets costs about
> $6 (square rubber grommets are $24) from Schaff.
>
> Regards,
> Clyde Hollinger, RPT
>
> Jerry Hunt wrote:
>
> > The piano was a 30 year old Yamaha spinet with a
> > broken hammer shank. I was able to remove the hammer
> > butt withouth removing the action (thanks to my long
> > flange screw screwdriver). Not having arms like an
> > octopus, I don't think I'll be able to get the hammer
> > butt back in without removing the action.
> >
> > This spinet has the metal forks clipped to rubber
> > grommets and they are really hard to remove. My
> > questions are this:
> > 1) Is there a way to put the hammer back in without
> > removing the action?
> > 2) Assuming the answer to 1) is no, is there some
> > trick to disconnecting the forks from the grommets?
> >
> > Thanks.
>
>