Research:leather covered hammers

Murray Seminuk seminukm@cadvision.com
Sun, 17 Dec 2000 19:43:11 -0700


This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment
Hi Jon=20
All you have to do is rough up the lacquered side with sandpaper,at the =
area that you are going to glue .Sounds like you are using different =
elkskin than me.

Regards
Murray
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Jon Page=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 6:57 PM
  Subject: Re: Research:leather covered hammers



  Glue will not hold well over time on the smooth side of leather. If =
the suede
  side needs to be on the outside, then both sides need to have the =
suede texture.

  Jon  Page

  At 06:46 PM 12/17/2000 -0700, you wrote:

    Hi  Diane
    Why do you say that the deerskin is the best ?What others have you =
tried?Has
    the leather been put on with the rough side in or out.?It should be =
out.When
    glueing the leather on it has to be done in 2 steps.It is not glued =
onto the
    entire hammer but only at the base of the hammer felt and hammer =
molding

    Regards
    Murray
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "Diane Hofstetter" <dianepianotuner@hotmail.com>
    > Dave,
    >
    >   I am fortunate to  live in a town with a tannery.  If I could =
understand
    > better what to ask for, I could probably drive over one afternoon =
and get
    it rather than start up a new account with Jahn in Germany and wait =
and wait...
    >
    >   I have tried several different kinds of leather from that =
tannery so far
    > and so far the deerskin has been the best, but it's very mellow.  =
Perhaps
    if> I can get some of the leather made by Herzog, the folks at the =
tannery
    would> know what it is.
    >
    >   The ideas I put forth on pianotech as a research arm can best be
    > illustrated by this.  If we collectively can find what the best =
materialis
    > and even find a domestic source, then anyone who has the need of
    maintaining> instruments at a higher level with less effort can =
benefit from all our
    > efforts.>
    >   Thank you for your information!
    >
    >   Diane
    >
    >
    > >From: Dave Doremus <algiers_piano@bellsouth.net>

    > >>The original leather on the hammers was European
    > >>doeskin........etc.
    > >
    > >
    > >Murray is right, and the best leather I've used is from Herzog in
    > >Germany, I believe called hirsch and elsch, correct me if I'm =
wrong.
    > >Stretch and thickness are important as is consistency in flesh vs
    > >skin side. Do not use American supply house buckskin, it's too =
coarse
    > >and heavy. I think that Jahn will supply what they call hammer
    > >leather which comes from Herzog and should be better than the
    > >American stuff. I dont think anything currently made (and there =
are
    > >those much more knowledgable than me who can add to this Im sure) =
is
    > >even close to what you actually find on old pianos, the whole =
leather
    > >making process is so different now. It is fairly easy to  use, =
just
    > >common sense, consistency and a careful hand. Malcolm Bilson had =
a
    > >blue suede on his piano hammers for some time that was very
    > >successful, so experimenting can be fun. Just use hide glue so =
you
    > >can recover from any mistakes.
    > >
    > >--
    > >Dave

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/66/f5/8d/a1/attachment.htm

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--



This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC