refinishing problem

John R Fortiner pianoserv440@juno.com
Sun, 6 Aug 2000 23:11:08 -0600



On Sun, 6 Aug 2000 07:56:52 -0700 "Patricia Neely" <pneely@thegrid.net>
writes:
> Terry can the silicone be sanded out? Pat Neely
> 
Nope! Nope! Nope!
I am not the one that this question was posted to, but I will offer a
little info - partially from schooling in refinishing and partially from
experience.
1.  Silicone is just about completely impossible to get rid of 100%. 
That is one of the reasons that a few posts previously addressing the
refinishing question have mentioned spraying on a "dry" film of sealer or
lac.  If you don't put enough material on the lid for the finish to flow
you will not have fisheyes - but, you won't have a smooth finish either. 
The idea is to bury the silicone under the finish film using as many
"dry" coats as necessary.  This will, of course involve a lot more
sanding than we want to do, but that is the way things go in the world of
refinishing.  After burying the silicone or other contaminent, and after
sanding the last "dry" coat down to a flat surface, you can then commence
with your "wet" coats of finish. (Be sure to allow adequate drying time
between coats of lac.) I would highly recommend that your sealer coats
only be dry sanded.  They are made to sand easily, so take advantage of
it.

2.  Regarding the addition of "fisheye flowout" to lac or other finishes.
 Please use as little of that stuff as possible.  On a dark surface, ie
walnut, etc., too much fisheye flowout additive can cause the finish to
look milky instead of crystal clear.  Please don't ask me how I know. :-(

3.  Finally, remember that the addition of fisheye flowout, which someone
has already posted is really nothing but SILICONE, results in a finish
coat that is NOT as tough as one that does not have the additive in it.

FWIW
John R. Fortiner
Billings, MT.
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