Greg writes: > I read high >70's in the bass gradually coming down to mid 60's in the treble. Greetings, You either have heavy hammers, bad geometry, or excessive friction, but without balance weight figures, there is no way to really tell. I would suggest that you weigh the hammers. Take a mid bass hammer off the shank and weigh it. If it is over 10 grams, it needs a diet. Hammer # 44 should be in the neighbor hood of 7 grams, if it is 9 or more, you may have a lot of lead in the key. You will lose weight a lot faster by using a small belt sander on the sides of the hammer, reducing its thickness so that it has an "hour-glass" shape when viewed from the front or back. If you want the job to go fastest, remove all hammers with their shanks, get an accurate scale, and reduce them all. Making a small bench stop for them allows you to sand them down rather quickly, (just a scrap of wood in the shape of a V) Go ahead and cut them to the classic Steinway shape with a sandpaper file first, then make them tall and skinny! If you are really doping them anyway, you are not using much of the shoulder in the spectra. Friction should be self-evident, but needs a balance weight to pinpoint. Geometry can be roughly checked by how much key dip there is in relation to the blow distance, and closely checked by weight analysis ala David Stanwood. If you have a long leverage action, a minimal key dip will send the hammer through maximum blow, i.e., your finger is on the short end of the see-saw. If a .400" keydip,(my limit for Steinway actions, though others may differ), will not result in at least .045" aftertouch with normal let-off and 1 3/4" hammer blow, your finger is on the other end of the see-saw and there will probably be the least amount of factory lead, which doesn't sound like your problem. I think you have heavy hammers on shanks with the knuckles too close to the centerpin. (that's my guess and I am sticking to it, until someone else has a better idea.....(:)}} REgards, Ed Foote
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