Heavy action on Steinway "L"

[Jon Page]

At 02:21 PM 4/12/99 -0400, you wrote:
>    Based on my previous experience it seems that Steinway cannot sell
>shanks that match the knuckle size of their older pianos. I figure that
>this problem is likely to repeat itself many times over in the coming
>years so .... what's a fella to do?  

Renner Parts Kit. They have 3 different c/p to knuckle executions.

>    I spent a fair amount of time so far and bought the gram weights
>from pianotech along with a larger sized box of s,m,l and xl lead
>weights to install. As I played with them I placed the desired weight of
>50 grams on the key and tapped the stack a few times and nothing. I
>repeated this adding gram weights until I reached the point when the
>hammers would reach letoff within 3-4 taps on the stack. I read high
>70's in the bass gradually coming down to mid 60's in the treble. I then
>tried the opposite way of putting on the desired weight and then laying
>lead weights on top the key to reach letoff the same way. Well for you
>folks good at this I needn't tell you that it took a lot of weight. Not
>only would I  have to add too much weight , there's no where to put
>them! I can't even see where I could add 1-2 more anywhere in the bass!!
>Any suggestions?

Lead will not help if there is a friction issue. DW is only half of the
touchweight
figures needed. UpWeight is equally important. You don't want the UW below
20gr.  The hammers could be on the heavy side also.  If you want to get into
this
you will also need a digital gram scale and the "Touchweight Design Table"
from Pianotech. Then read Dave Stanwood's articles, attend his classes and 
practice.

How it regulates is a factor also. If the jack is buried into the stop felt at
the end
of the keystroke this indicates geometry problems and you may need to move
the capstan ( & possibly the wippen support)  and the knuckle. Renner has two
sizes knuckles. This is why the Kit is so handy, you can experiment with
different
executions to get the best regulation before you install everything.

An "L" which I'm currently working on did not have sufficient jack clearance 
after L/O ie: no aftertouch. I moved the capstan back about 3/8" and changed
the angle, the jack now is right where it should be on checking-in.

If you already have too much lead, then wippen assist springs will remove
some of them. But here again, friction is the prevailling factor. If your
UW is
in the low 20's, then you can not lighten the action further without first
easing the 
friction:  Key bushings - ironed and teflon'd. ease balance rail hole. size
and
lube
action centers. Apply teflon and burnish the knuckles, burnish the rep lever.

Excessively heavy hammers will induce high friction also.

There is so much to it. it will take you many, many, many days to figure it
out.
Notice I didn't say hours.

Good Luck,

Jon Page

PS Then again, you could always send the action to Dave Stanwood for
processing.

>    In closing, for those of you who read my last post, I do want to
>learn. Can any of you point me to recent journal articles that may be of
>help? Do any of you experienced with this have any input about my
>specific situation? Thanks in advance for your help!!!  I this list
>great or what?!?
>                        regards,
>                        Greg Newell
>