> Date: Fri, 21 Mar 1997 23:52:46 -0600 > From: Richard Moody <remoody@easnetsd.com> > Subject: Re:hammer shanks > To: pianotech@byu.edu > Reply-to: pianotech@byu.edu Richard, You can thin shanks yourself with a 1" belt sander. Most sets of quality grand shanks and flanges have the top 2 or so thinned. It is as Les says to bring out more high partials/tone. I often thin all of the shanks as it eliminates a small amount of weight and because it is on the sides it doesn't affect the strength of the shank. David ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA > To Les's observations below, I would like to add the importance of > the hammer shank. I recently tuned a Wurlitzer grand (circa 1988) > with hammer shanks in the treble section that were not round but > oblong, or "skinny" in diameter in horizontal plane. Perhaps words > fail this description, but these "narrow" shanks must have been > intended for tonal enhancement. Was it to reduce mass or increase > flexibility? I have also seen these shanks in earlier pianos., > Of course when replacing shanks in uprights we have the option of > which way the grain faces. One way gives better strength, but the > other way gives less stress to the flange centers,(theoretically) > This is after we have culled of course. So which way is better and > why? Does it really relate to how the bat is held in baseball? > And regarding upright shanks, in the old days there were maple and > cedar.(and probably birch) Suppose I want cedar for the treble, can > I still get them? > And could I get "narrow shanks" for grand replacements? > > Richard Achipofftheoldlog Moody > > ---------- > > From: Les Smith <lessmith@buffnet.net> > > To: pianotech@byu.edu > > Subject: Re: Bechstein-restauration > > Date: Friday, March 21, 1997 5:45 PM > > snip > > So the wieght of a particular hammer depends upon BOTH the type of > > wood used for the molding and the density of its felt. > snip > > > Les Smith > > lessmith@buffnet.net > > > > >
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