Tuning old Chickerings

[DAN G. LITWIN]

Hello everyone.  I'd just like to add a few more of my thoughts about petroleum
products (WD-40, and the like).  But with only 3 years of study and work as a
piano tech, I am obviously not the highest authority.  So, to be sure, the
following anecdote is only about 1 individual, not about anyone who uses WD-40.

Various piano technicians here in San Diego have told me about a local tuner who
has been oiling pianos for some time.  In fact, I have heard about some legal
action with regard to the effects on one of the pianos he has serviced.

One of these techs told me that he keeps a special set of strip mutes in his car
for accasions when he finds the strings all oiled up with a petroleum product.
He says that he keeps these mutes in a paper bag with name of the offending
tuner written on the bag.

I am not a veteran of this business.  So my way is not the "right" way.  But
this is what I do:

1) In grands with moderate to severe rust on the strings as they cross the
under-string felt near the tuning pins, I use a needle bottle to moisten the
felt with Protek on 1 or both sides of each string as it passes along the felt.
Yamahas seem to have tremendous problems with rendering across there.  This
allows the strings to render very nicely.  And the felt still looks perfectly
fine.  So far, I have not used lubricant to help with strings in any other way.
There are other techs in San Diego who think I've gone to far in just doing
that.

2) To help reduce string breakage on uprights, I will detune any rusty strings
slightly before stretching them.  And occasionally, I'll advise against pitch
raising an old upright.

3) But most of all, and on all pianos, I will use a smooth hammer technique.
Switching from the jerk such as I was taught in the Randy Potter course, to a
smooth technique advocated to me by the late Danny Boone of Baylor Univ., has
cut down on broken strings by a significant percentage - possibly %60 to %70.
(Naturally, Potter's course is still great, and the best I know of.)

If I drip Protek on the wood, or use too much, I am safe.  It is non-petroleum
and will not hurt the wood, or even attract dust, it seems.  And if I break a
string, the customer is going to have it professionally repaired on the spot -
even though I do not enjoy doing string repairs.



Dan Litwin
San Diego chapter PTG
71213.1421@compuserve.com