[CAUT] Bösendorfer question

[Alan Eder]

Hi Roger,


Thanks so much for your detailed response.  Lots of very useful information.  


Mucho appreciado!


Alan


-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Jolly <roger.j at sasktel.net>
To: caut <caut at ptg.org>
Sent: Mon, Aug 29, 2011 9:46 am
Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bösendorfer question



Hi Alan,
            Ithought those pins were 0.135"? again I am going from my fadedmemory, in which case use 0.137 cauls.  Use hide hot glue, don'tpush the caul all the way in and use a razor blade to trim flush with thetop of the button.  Once trimmed push the caul down the extra 2 or 3mm.
You are correct about the glue and leather, very little wicking.
When I have used the tan side to the pin, I've found it prone tosqueaks.

The leather last at least 5 times longer.  I still bush the frontrail with cloth, it is quieter.  Because there is less key roll withleather BR bushings the FR seems to also last longer.

We have converted most of our instruments to leather and are very pleasedwith the results. Level and dip appears more stable. We have not had tore bush any of the leather converts, and a number of these pianos weredone 5 years ago.

Expect a spirited discussion on tan in and tan out. The above is just myexperience. Probably there is no right answer. I use a small artist brushto coat the nap in Teflon powder. It seems to stay put long enough forthe nap to lay down.

The leather/maple button seems to be more stable with humidityswings.

Regards Roger


At 01:59 PM 8/29/2011, you wrote:

Hi Roger, 

Thanks for the input on key bushing with leather. Â Nap towards the pin,eh? Â Not what I would have guessed (but I have zero experience bushingkeys with leather at the moment, so what do I know?). Â Do you use hotanimal hide glue? Â Any special considerations (vs. bushing w/ cloth)?Â

If my memory serves me correctly I use 1.1mm.


... which would be about .043". Â I suppose the appropriatethickness of leather depends, as with cloth, on the difference betweenthe size of the mortise and the size of the key pins (less whatever needsto be figured in for the glue line--and I imagine that leather will beless absorbent of glue than cloth, particularly if the glue is applied tothe tanned side of the leather).

Have you found leather to last substantially longer than cloth? Â And asit starts to wear, is there a way to resuscitate it (like there is withcloth)?

Many thanks,

Alan Eder



-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Jolly <roger.j at sasktel.net>
To: caut <caut at ptg.org>
Sent: Mon, Aug 29, 2011 8:30 am
Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bösendorfer question


Hi Alan,
              Get your leather from Jurgen at PianoForte he sells it in several thicknesses, 0.1mm increments. I use it withthe nap towards the pins, dusted with micro fine Teflon powder. Nosqueaky leather.  If my memory serves me correctly I use1.1mm.

Regards Roger



At 12:00 PM 8/29/2011, you wrote:

Hi Ted,
I will be rebushing with leather.


I am about to rebush a set of keys with leather, a first-timeexperience for me. Â Any tips you would be willing to share? 

Thanks,

Alan Eder



-----Original Message-----
From: Edward Sambell<esambell at yahoo.com>
To: caut <caut at ptg.org>
Sent: Sat, Aug 27, 2011 9:42 am
Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bösendorfer question

Stan,

I have worked on many Bosendorfers and the keypin diameters were.135". In fact I am doing one now, and it too has .135" on bothrails. I will be rebushing with leather. The keys are made by HerrbergerBrooks (UK) but this size seems to be common with Europeanpianos.

Regards, Ted Sambell


From: Stan Kroeker<smkroeker at shaw.ca>
To: caut at ptg.org
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 1:26:03 PM
Subject: [CAUT] Bösendorfer question
Hello all,

Have just received a set of Bösendorfer keys from a colleague forrebushing and am worried that the keypin diameters may not have beenmeasured accurately.  Is anyone able to share these specs?

Best regards from the sun-baked Canadian prairie!

Stan Kroeker, RPT


 
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