[CAUT] Bösendorfer question

[Roger Jolly]

Hi Alan,
             I thought those pins were 0.135"? again I am going from my 
faded memory, in which case use 0.137 cauls.  Use hide hot glue, don't push 
the caul all the way in and use a razor blade to trim flush with the top of 
the button.  Once trimmed push the caul down the extra 2 or 3 mm.
You are correct about the glue and leather, very little wicking.
When I have used the tan side to the pin, I've found it prone to squeaks.

The leather last at least 5 times longer.  I still bush the front rail with 
cloth, it is quieter.  Because there is less key roll with leather BR 
bushings the FR seems to also last longer.

We have converted most of our instruments to leather and are very pleased 
with the results. Level and dip appears more stable. We have not had to re 
bush any of the leather converts, and a number of these pianos were done 5 
years ago.

Expect a spirited discussion on tan in and tan out. The above is just my 
experience. Probably there is no right answer. I use a small artist brush 
to coat the nap in Teflon powder. It seems to stay put long enough for the 
nap to lay down.

The leather/maple button seems to be more stable with humidity swings.

Regards Roger


At 01:59 PM 8/29/2011, you wrote:
>Hi Roger,
>
>Thanks for the input on key bushing with leather. Â Nap towards the pin, 
>eh? Â Not what I would have guessed (but I have zero experience bushing 
>keys with leather at the moment, so what do I know?). Â Do you use hot 
>animal hide glue? Â Any special considerations (vs. bushing w/ cloth)?Â
>If my memory serves me correctly I use 1.1mm.
>
>... which would be about .043". Â I suppose the appropriate thickness of 
>leather depends, as with cloth, on the difference between the size of the 
>mortise and the size of the key pins (less whatever needs to be figured in 
>for the glue line--and I imagine that leather will be less absorbent of 
>glue than cloth, particularly if the glue is applied to the tanned side of 
>the leather).
>
>Have you found leather to last substantially longer than cloth? Â And as 
>it starts to wear, is there a way to resuscitate it (like there is with cloth)?
>
>Many thanks,
>
>Alan Eder
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Roger Jolly <roger.j at sasktel.net>
>To: caut <caut at ptg.org>
>Sent: Mon, Aug 29, 2011 8:30 am
>Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bösendorfer question
>
>
>Hi Alan,
>Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  Get your leather from Jurgen at Piano Forte he 
>sells it in several thicknesses, 0.1mm increments. I use it with the nap 
>towards the pins, dusted with micro fine Teflon powder. No squeaky 
>leather.  If my memory serves me correctly I use 1.1mm.
>
>Regards Roger
>
>
>
>At 12:00 PM 8/29/2011, you wrote:
>>Hi Ted,
>>I will be rebushing with leather.
>>
>>I am about to rebush a set of keys with leather, a first-time experience 
>>for me. Â Any tips you would be willing to share?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Alan Eder
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Edward Sambell <<mailto:esambell at yahoo.com>esambell at yahoo.com>
>>To: caut <<mailto:caut at ptg.org>caut at ptg.org>
>>Sent: Sat, Aug 27, 2011 9:42 am
>>Subject: Re: [CAUT] Bösendorfer question
>>
>>Stan,
>>
>>I have worked on many Bosendorfers and the keypin diameters were .135". 
>>In fact I am doing one now, and it too has .135" on both rails. I will be 
>>rebushing with leather. The keys are made by Herrberger Brooks (UK) but 
>>this size seems to be common with European pianos.
>>
>>Regards, Ted Sambell
>>
>>From: Stan Kroeker <smkroeker at shaw.ca>
>>To: caut at ptg.org
>>Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 1:26:03 PM
>>Subject: [CAUT] Bösendorfer question
>>Hello all,
>>Have just received a set of Bösendorfer keys from a colleague for 
>>rebushing and am worried that the keypin diameters may not have been 
>>measured accurately.  Is anyone able to share these specs?
>>Best regards from the sun-baked Canadian prairie!
>>Stan Kroeker, RPT
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