These newer shanks are not supposed to be roughed up at all! That's what they say! I'm still going to have to ream the hammer-bore holes as they are so snug that I can't even put them on. Now, I've heard that one can "dry" hang them, then apply their special glue in place with a drop or two of non-viscous CA at the tail end to wick in. That doesn't make sense to me as then there would no glue inside between the shank and hammer. I'm getting many different opinions both from y'all, Wally, and WNG. \\\ I think a tutorial from WNG is in order directly so all of us with new shanks can deal with this. Then, we won't have to go through this again. Was this worth it? I'm hoping so... Paul From: Michael Magness <ifixpiano at gmail.com> To: caut at ptg.org Date: 08/20/2010 11:46 AM Subject: Re: [CAUT] New shanks from WNG/boring issues On Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 5:37 PM, Paul T Williams < pwilliams4 at unlnotes.unl.edu> wrote: Hi all, I have these new shanks from WNG and ordered a set of Wally's naturals which they bored at exactly what WNG suggested was 0.185" or (4.7mm). shanks are 4.7mm and the same for the boring hole...so guess what- they won't go on the shank!. I talked to one of the folks at Brooks and he suggests reaming the hammer a bit to get some play between hammer and shank. More widened toward the shank end of the hammer hole than the back. these won't even slide on the shank, so I'll need to ream or re-bore. I'm leaning toward reaming as John at Brooks suggested this to make the hole closer to to same at the back of the boring hole with room for the glue at the front of the hole. He's tried several attacks, and WNG keeps changing the deck. I'm now very nervous of where to go, but need y'all's input on what you're finding. Now with the NEW SHANKS< NOT SCORED IN ANY WAY type. just smooth to the end. What have you all found to be the best solution to this? I'm not going forward until I hear some of your stories. These are the newest shanks with no roughing needed at the tail end of the shank. It sounds like this is still in developement with us to determine the right procedures, and I'm a bit nervous with a $400+ set of hammers...even with free shanks. I want to get it right the first time Thanks for more input. Paul The shanks are to be roughened in line with the shank rather than around DAMHIK I am still re-gluing hammers from my first set that I roughened in a circular fashion as the loosen in a school piano. I made the desicion on my 2nd set to not use the glue that came with the shanks, didn't care for it. I bored my hammers larger & used Franklins moulding & trim glue, worked great! Mike -- It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it. Aristotle (384 BC - 322 BC) Michael Magness Magness Piano Service 608-786-4404 www.IFixPianos.com email mike at ifixpianos.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/caut.php/attachments/20100820/60058b55/attachment-0001.htm>
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