[CAUT] New shanks from WNG/boring issues

[Ward & Probst, Inc]

If you want a hands on tutorial, Mark Burgett will be doing hammer shank and
backcheck installation SCRC, October 7-9, 2010. 
www.ptg.org/scrc
 
DP
Dale Probst RPT
Registered Piano Technician
Ward & Probst, Inc.
www.wardprobst.com <http://www.wardprobst.com/> 
dale at wardprobst.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Paul T
Williams
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 3:48 PM
To: caut at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [CAUT] New shanks from WNG/boring issues


These newer shanks are not supposed to be roughed up at all! That's what
they say!  I'm still going to have to ream the hammer-bore holes as they are
so snug that I can't even put them on. 

Now, I've heard that one can "dry" hang them, then apply their special glue
in place with a drop or two of non-viscous CA at the tail end to wick in.
That doesn't make sense to me as then there would no glue inside between the
shank and hammer.  I'm getting many different opinions both from y'all,
Wally, and WNG.  \\\ 

I think a tutorial from WNG is in order directly so all of us with new
shanks can deal with this. Then, we won't have to go through this again. 

Was this worth it? I'm hoping so... 

Paul 




From: 	Michael Magness <ifixpiano at gmail.com> 

To: 	caut at ptg.org 

Date: 	08/20/2010 11:46 AM 

Subject: 	Re: [CAUT] New shanks from WNG/boring issues

  _____  






On Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 5:37 PM, Paul T Williams <
<mailto:pwilliams4 at unlnotes.unl.edu> pwilliams4 at unlnotes.unl.edu> wrote: 
Hi all, 

I have these new shanks from WNG and ordered a set of Wally's naturals which
they bored at exactly what WNG suggested was 0.185" or (4.7mm).  shanks are
4.7mm and the same for the boring hole...so guess what- they won't go on the
shank!. I talked to one of the folks at Brooks and he suggests reaming the
hammer a bit to get some play between hammer and shank.  More widened toward
the shank end of the hammer hole than the back.   these won't even slide on
the shank, so I'll need to ream or re-bore.  I'm leaning toward reaming as
John at Brooks suggested this to make the hole closer to to same at the back
of the boring hole with room for the glue at the front of the hole. He's
tried several attacks, and WNG keeps changing the deck. I'm now very nervous
of where to go, but need y'all's input on what you're finding.  Now with the
NEW SHANKS< NOT SCORED IN ANY WAY type.  just smooth to the end. 

What have you all found to be the best solution to this? I'm not going
forward until I hear some of your stories. 

These are the newest shanks with no roughing needed at the tail end of the
shank.   

It sounds like this is still in developement with us to determine the right
procedures, and I'm a bit nervous with a $400+ set of hammers...even with
free shanks.  I want to get it right the first time 

Thanks for more input. 
Paul 



The shanks are to be roughened in line with the shank rather than around
DAMHIK 


I am still re-gluing hammers from my first set that I roughened in a
circular fashion as the loosen in a school piano. 
  
I made the desicion on my 2nd set to not use the glue that came with the
shanks, didn't care for it. I bored my hammers larger & used Franklins
moulding & trim glue, worked great! 
  
Mike
-- 
  
It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without
accepting it.
    
    Aristotle (384 BC - 322 BC)

Michael Magness
Magness Piano Service
608-786-4404
 <http://www.ifixpianos.com/> www.IFixPianos.com
email  <mailto:mike at ifixpianos.com> mike at ifixpianos.com 



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