Mark Cramer wrote: > A few years ago I ran out of good reasons /not/ to pin a new bridge-cap > with the same epoxy method (Mr. Bill’s) we’ve been using to re-pin > original caps with for over a decade. > > More recently, I’ve tried to add some of the /heresy/ gleaned from this > list (you know who you are ;>) into my procedure, as follows: > > 1.) Drilling the holes to extra depth. > > 2.) Installing rounded-pins to final height, rather than the traditional > filing method. Gee, this is starting to sound strangely familiar. > 3.) Coating the surface with McLube rather than Dag (graphite). There's one! You don't need to coat the bridge top with *any* sort of lubricant. The pins are the big friction points to the degree that friction across the top surface is functionally inconsequential. > Any other suggestions…? Don't cut yourself on the chisel! You won't be losing knuckles on the filed pins, and can save the blood for stringing. > (No we don’t have a handy source of Titanium bridge pins or a hydraulic > pin-press) Anyone know off hand, the friction coefficient between music wire and titanium, or stainless steel? Ron N
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