[CAUT] 234 Steinway B

David Love davidlovepianos at comcast.net
Sun Apr 19 06:04:29 PDT 2009


I've used both and the wire diameters are different.  I've never been able
to figure out if that's a problem or not, more of a tradeoff.  The main
thing that bothers me with the Tokiwas is the tendency for the color to
transfer to the hammer molding.  Which makes me whether what Chris mentions
about them being synthetic is true.   I think it's the leather dye that you
see transfer.  The Tokiwas may be leather and the Renner backchecks may be
synthetic although the replacement backcheck covers material that you buy
from Renner is leather.    I'd have to look at them again, can't recall.  At
any rate, they both work.  The Tokiwas are easier to regulate as the wire
bends more easily (the Renner wire is very stiff).  Because the Tokiwas are
more malleable they also tend to fold more easily when being pressed in so
you have to be more careful to support the wire.  The argument for Tokiwa
malleability is that it gives a slightly softer checking, on the other hand
on a harder blow the checking distance will tend to push a little deeper.
As you mention, the Tokiwas are much less expensive.  Cost aside, I prefer
to use Renner.  On some jobs, however, cost is a consideration.

 

On the other issue, it's interesting but I find that the distance that the
shanks end up over the rest cushion tends to vary quite a bit on Steinway
rebuilds even when the bore distance is correct.  I've had situations where
you could barely get the shanks off the cushions and situations where there
was too much distance and situations where I had to build up the wippen
cushions with an extra piece of felt to reduce the distance.  In both cases
the moving up or down of the stack often doesn't seem like the right thing
as other relationships seemed correct so I'm not sure what that's about.   

 

David Love

www.davidlovepianos.com

 

From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of David
Love
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 11:32 PM
To: 'David Ilvedson'
Cc: pianotech at ptg.org; caut at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [CAUT] 234 Steinway B

 

If the only problem is the backchecks being too high and the wippen felt
being too thick (some Steinway elevations create this problem) then just
peel a bit of felt off the wippen rest cushion (if they are the Renner type)
and either try and lower the back checks by pressing them down using a drill
press (though that can be difficult once the backcheck wires are bent) or
replace (if the backcheck leather is worn) with a new set of backchecks.
They don't have to be the oversized type you only need to be sure that the
wire is not too long so that you can press them in without the wire going
through the bottom of the key.  I usually use Renner or Tokiwa backchecks.
The dark brown leather backchecks are older ones but not the original ones
and were probably installed some time ago.  When the key is fully depressed
and prior to let off the top of the backcheck should be no higher than the
tip of the hammer tail and preferably the tail should be a mm or two higher
than the top of the backcheck.  

 

David Love

www.davidlovepianos.com

 

From: David Ilvedson [mailto:ilvey at sbcglobal.net] 
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 10:51 PM
To: davidlovepianos at comcast.net
Subject: 234 Steinway B

 

List,

 

I'm working with a older Steinway B...new action.  I've have been trying to
figure what is with the action...?   What I found is the blow distance is
maybe 44 mm/approximately.   Hammers on the wippen felts (tapping behind the
balance rail makes no hammer movement, moving jack makes no hammer
movement).   Aftertouch is plenty.   I thought about removing some wippen
felt, but the hammers (especially in the tenor) are touching or nearly
touching the backchecks.   There are brown marks on tenor hammers where they
are impacting the backchecks.   So it seems the backchecks are too
high...when I depress a key fully the backcheck is higher than the bottom of
the tail, maybe 5 or 6 mm.   I can't regulate the blow distance to specs
without removing wippen fellt and then the hammers will be on the
backchecks.   This seems mostly in the tenor...but close through out...

 

I went ahead, temporarily and raised the capstans slightly so I could
regulate wippen height, align jacks...most too far under the knuckle, just
to see if I could improve the action response...a little better.

 

How would I lower the backchecks...seem like cowhide (brown rough leather)?
I remember a technique of using a drill press to push the backchecks farther
down on the wire? 

Maybe new backchecks with good buckskin would be a good idea?   If new,
should they be Steinway style...bigger?   The hammer tails might be longer
than regular Steinway hammers?   

 

Thanks in advance for any advice...

 

David Ilvedson, RPT
Pacifica, CA 94044

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