After chasing loose hammer shank joints around with boiling water followed by fresh hot hide (applied with a brush) and/or CA glue with less than stellar results, I've taken to just popping off the offending hammers heads (like Ed says...with the shank/hammer assembly removed from the rail to protect the pinning) and gluing them back on with your favorite hammer hanging glue. If necessary, use a shank reducer to clean up the shank, although if they were glue starved to begin with they often pop off clean. I find this a lot, and even in the absence of clicking I check all the heads whenever I have the action out by simply grabbing and wiggling - the loose ones stand right out! One thing that I've never been able to understand, though, is why I never seem to find loose hammer heads below (roughly) the capo sections. I assume that this might have something to do with either the bore angle or the stiffness of the strings, but I really don't know. - Mark Dierauf Andrew Anderson wrote: > <div class="moz-text-flowed" style="font-family: -moz-fixed">We had > the Long sisters Duo (great artists, don't miss them if you have the > opportunity) here at TAMIU. During the course of their practice and > the pre-concert tuning (done minutes before) some clicking developed > in the hammers. I held adjacent notes down tight to eliminate > slapping of the front rail. No joy. I put a finger over the damper > and softened the upstop. That did seem to make a little difference. > I checked, the rail is in place with plenty of felt apparent. > > I've had to reglue a few dampers including one after their practice so > I'm suspecting the hammer-shank glue joint. Would this be a candidate > for a little vinegar to reactivate the glue and tighten the joint? Or > would it be preferable to simply remove the worst hammers, knurl the > shank and re-glue? > > Andrew Anderson > > > </div> >
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