Hi John, In addition to what Jon wrote, I would actually pull the stack to check all keys: balance holes and bushings. It's a good thing to have done. I like to lube and iron all bushings, ream and lube all balance holes as a matter of course. (Precision reamer, 0.147", twisted back and forth once about 90-120 degrees lightly in each hole - makes for a clean and precise hole, consistent for every key). Your experience may differ in NC from our dry conditions in NM, as to sizing of balance holes - you are closer in RH to the Kluge factory. I find balance holes on all brands tend to be too snug in new pianos. Lube the key pins: hold the keyframe vertical and run a paintbrush with Prolube or McLube along the part that the keybushings will contact (a couple minutes that pays off handsomely). Check parts alignment. In particular, before aligning hammers to strings, see if the whole action/keyframe is slightly shifted to the bass end (compression of that una corda stop felt) and shim out the block a bit if needed. Check for twisted shanks and correct (bass hammer in particular can tend to lean in one or other direction, causing rubbing issues until corrected). It's a good idea to go through regulation: at the least, the capstans likely need tweaking, and you may find things like a few blocking hammers. Not necessarily a full regulation, just check each note for proper function. About the damper wires, they can tend to be set so they bear/bind too tightly against one side of the bushing. They are intended to bear "lightly but firmly." A very light tough on the bending pliers (bottom- most bend) will get it to the point where "the firmness is there but the friction is not." And if there is still a friction issue, with action out press down the damper pedal and run a paintbrush of Prolube along the wires just above the bushings (fast, gets them all at once). I like to level the strings first off. It might or might not have been done already (they have string levels in the factory). Check trapwork for pins working loose. I had a problem with una corda lever pin walking out on a couple in the past few years. Maybe they have corrected the problem. Good luck! Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico fssturm at unm.edu On Nov 26, 2008, at 5:55 AM, Ralinovsky, Jonathan Mr. wrote: > Hi John, > Congratulations on your department’s purchase. I would suggest > TFL-50 for the keybed (where the front/back rail and glides contact > it) and ends of the keyframe where the keyframe contacts the return > spring. Check the damper wires to ensure that they are moving freely > through the damper guide rail. Lubricate the key bushings with > Prolube or your favorite equivalent; ease key bushings and balance > holes as needed. > > Respectfully, > Jon > > Jon Ralinovsky > Piano Technician > Department of Music > Miami University > 513/529-6548 > > > On 11/26/08 6:45 AM, "John D. Chapman" <johnchapman at asolare.org> > wrote: > > Our music department just received four new Steinways: one D, two Bs, > and an A. Other than the obvious tuning and voicing, what immediate > prep would you suggest? > John Chapman > Wake Forest University > Winston-Salem, North Carolina > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/caut_ptg.org/attachments/20081126/241ca1de/attachment.html>
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