[CAUT] a simple question

[Kendall Ross Bean]

Paul~
 
I never had much luck with liquid hide glue. I have used both liquid hide
glue and hot hide glue and they are quite different animals, not even close.
 
As some others here have already stated, liquid hide glue is pretty runny
and takes forever to set up. They have to put "something" in it at the
factory to keep it from hardening in the bottle, or at the same room
temperature that hot hide glue normally gels and hardens. That "something"
seems to be the problem. Liquid hide glue seems to be better for
applications where you don't need a lot of holding strength and can take
your sweet time while it hardens. 
 
But you know, a lot of the other glues you can buy are also runny. I think
that whatever hammer glue a technician uses, it can be very helpful to let
it thicken by leaving the lid off until it is the proper consistency - thin
enough to still soak into the wood, but thick enough so those little glue
collars you make as you spin the hammer on the shank will tend to stay in
place rather than dripping off.
 
I have used both Bolduc glue and Tightbond for hammer hanging, as well as
hot hide glue. Hot hide glue is the traditionalist's favorite, but in my old
age (50's now) I just want something convenient, and quick, that works well,
without all the mess and fuss of hot hide. One of the rationales given for
using hot hide glue is that it is easier to disassemble parts if needed or
if rebuilding. I have never had any problem disassembling parts with these
other glues.
 
(I'm pretty sure Steinway hasn't used hot hide glue for hammers for many
years now (unless they have changed their policy recently). Bolduc glue
works great for hammers but is somewhat expensive. Tightbond works well but
the water component (or whatever it is) in the glue, in my experience, tends
to warp the shanks slightly as it dries so you have to do more shank heating
and correction. Perhaps if you let the glue thicken more this wouldn't be as
much of a problem. I haven't tried Titebond Trim and Molding, might be the
next thing I do.  
 
All the glues I have used over the years have come a bit on the runny side
for hammer hanging. When I have let them thicken (but not too much!)  they
have always worked much better.
 
The problem is essentially the same as with hot hide glue: How thick should
it be for the job? (-and also, being able to plan far enough in advance so
it's ready when you need it.) 
 
Sincerely,
 
Kendall Ross Bean 
 
PianoFinders
www.pianofinders.com <http://www.pianofinders.com/> 
e-mail: kenbean at pianofinders.com
 
Connecting Pianos and People
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