[CAUT] a simple question

[Alan McCoy]

Paul,

You will not need to let the Trim and Molding glue sit out to reach a
thicker consistency. It is very thick right out of the bottle. If anything,
it sets up a bit faster than I like. But it doesn't drip.

Alan


-- Alan McCoy, RPT
Eastern Washington University
amccoy at mail.ewu.edu
509-359-4627
509-999-9512


> From: Kendall Ross Bean <kenbean at pacbell.net>
> Reply-To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" <caut at ptg.org>
> Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 16:18:27 -0700
> To: <caut at ptg.org>
> Subject: [CAUT]  a simple question
> 
> Paul~
>  
> I never had much luck with liquid hide glue. I have used both liquid hide
> glue and hot hide glue and they are quite different animals, not even close.
>  
> As some others here have already stated, liquid hide glue is pretty runny
> and takes forever to set up. They have to put "something" in it at the
> factory to keep it from hardening in the bottle, or at the same room
> temperature that hot hide glue normally gels and hardens. That "something"
> seems to be the problem. Liquid hide glue seems to be better for
> applications where you don't need a lot of holding strength and can take
> your sweet time while it hardens.
>  
> But you know, a lot of the other glues you can buy are also runny. I think
> that whatever hammer glue a technician uses, it can be very helpful to let
> it thicken by leaving the lid off until it is the proper consistency - thin
> enough to still soak into the wood, but thick enough so those little glue
> collars you make as you spin the hammer on the shank will tend to stay in
> place rather than dripping off.
>  
> I have used both Bolduc glue and Tightbond for hammer hanging, as well as
> hot hide glue. Hot hide glue is the traditionalist's favorite, but in my old
> age (50's now) I just want something convenient, and quick, that works well,
> without all the mess and fuss of hot hide. One of the rationales given for
> using hot hide glue is that it is easier to disassemble parts if needed or
> if rebuilding. I have never had any problem disassembling parts with these
> other glues.
>  
> (I'm pretty sure Steinway hasn't used hot hide glue for hammers for many
> years now (unless they have changed their policy recently). Bolduc glue
> works great for hammers but is somewhat expensive. Tightbond works well but
> the water component (or whatever it is) in the glue, in my experience, tends
> to warp the shanks slightly as it dries so you have to do more shank heating
> and correction. Perhaps if you let the glue thicken more this wouldn't be as
> much of a problem. I haven't tried Titebond Trim and Molding, might be the
> next thing I do. 
>  
> All the glues I have used over the years have come a bit on the runny side
> for hammer hanging. When I have let them thicken (but not too much!)  they
> have always worked much better.
>  
> The problem is essentially the same as with hot hide glue: How thick should
> it be for the job? (-and also, being able to plan far enough in advance so
> it's ready when you need it.)
>  
> Sincerely,
>  
> Kendall Ross Bean
>  
> PianoFinders
> www.pianofinders.com <http://www.pianofinders.com/>
> e-mail: kenbean at pianofinders.com
>  
> Connecting Pianos and People