[CAUT] bridge cap sanding

[Jeff Farris]

Thanks, sounds like the way to go.


>Jeff,
>With the pins in, and using thinest CA, there is no excess. If one does not
>apply too many times.
>Two times or passes works well for me. The third pass tends to leave CA that
>needs to be wiped off and that is a no win event. O(( Two passes soaks into
>the wood. First pass immediately and the second after 5 minutes or so.
>Joe Goss RPT
>Mother Goose Tools
>imatunr at srvinet.com
>www.mothergoosetools.com
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jeff Farris" <Jfarris at mail.utexas.edu>
>To: "College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org>
>Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 11:49 AM
>Subject: Re: [CAUT] bridge cap sanding
>
>
>>  >>I like the idea behind epoxying the pins - no pin upward movement
>>  >
>>  >If you don't epoxy or CA them in, you'll most likely have the same
>>  >false beats you had before you restrung it, because you didn't fix
>>  >the original problem. If you do epoxy them in, you won't because you
>>  >did. The bridge cap will still move the strings up and *down* the
>>  >string some, but not quite as much as before. Strings don't stay up
>>  >bridge pins.
>>  >
>>  >>- but is there no concern with removing them in the future?
>>  >
>>  >They'll still pull out if you need to.
>>  >
>>  >>Otherwise, I guess you'd have to seat the bridge pins every tuning, huh?
>>  >>Jeff F
>>  >
>>  >No, because seating strings doesn't fix anything. The strings aren't
>>  >up the pins.
>>  >Ron N
>>
>>
>>
>>  No, I actually meant the pins, not the strings, but I guess them,
>>  too. Anyway, I would like to CA glue them in place. Would you drive
>>  them in first and then add the glue (trying to not make a mess) or
>>  what? And what thickness.
>>
>>  Thanks in advance,
>>
>>  --
>>  Jeff Farris
>>  Piano Technician
>>  School of Music
>>  UT Austin
>>  mailto; jfarris at mail.utexas.edu
>>  512-471-0158


-- 
Jeff Farris
Piano Technician
School of Music
UT Austin
mailto; jfarris at mail.utexas.edu
512-471-0158