[CAUT] bridge cap sanding

Ron Nossaman rnossaman at cox.net
Thu Jan 24 12:34:05 MST 2008


> No, I actually meant the pins, not the strings, but I guess them, too. 

Woops, my mistake. No, you don't ever need to seat bridge 
pins. It is of no tonal consequence whether they're seated or 
not, and humidity cycles will insure that they aren't seated 
most of the time anyway whatever you do. All seating pins does 
is seat strings by virtue of the friction between pin and 
string dragging the string down into the notch edge as the pin 
goes down, further damaging the notch edge. And seating 
strings is still a pointless and destructive process as well. 
Make the pin solid at the top of the bridge cap and all the 
reasons that techs feel the need to seat pins or strings go 
away.


> Anyway, I would like to CA glue them in place. Would you drive them in 
> first and then add the glue (trying to not make a mess) or what? And 
> what thickness.

Using CA, if they're reasonably tight after driving them in, 
I'd drive them all in and use the thin. A couple of passes, 
soaking in all you can get to go in there has worked well for 
me. Personally, the thought of squirting CA in a hole and 
chasing a pin in with a hammer is terrifying. Any procedure 
combining the concepts of CA and splash are something I want 
no part of. Alternately, a couple of drops of West System 
epoxy wetting the top of the hole, with the pin driven in 
while it's still wet is still my first choice.

In any case, the important thing is getting as much of your 
goop of choice into the cap grain as close to the surface as 
possible. Depth of penetration down the pin is of little to no 
importance, but solidity of the termination at the top is primary.
Ron N


More information about the caut mailing list

This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC