> No, I actually meant the pins, not the strings, but I guess them, too. Woops, my mistake. No, you don't ever need to seat bridge pins. It is of no tonal consequence whether they're seated or not, and humidity cycles will insure that they aren't seated most of the time anyway whatever you do. All seating pins does is seat strings by virtue of the friction between pin and string dragging the string down into the notch edge as the pin goes down, further damaging the notch edge. And seating strings is still a pointless and destructive process as well. Make the pin solid at the top of the bridge cap and all the reasons that techs feel the need to seat pins or strings go away. > Anyway, I would like to CA glue them in place. Would you drive them in > first and then add the glue (trying to not make a mess) or what? And > what thickness. Using CA, if they're reasonably tight after driving them in, I'd drive them all in and use the thin. A couple of passes, soaking in all you can get to go in there has worked well for me. Personally, the thought of squirting CA in a hole and chasing a pin in with a hammer is terrifying. Any procedure combining the concepts of CA and splash are something I want no part of. Alternately, a couple of drops of West System epoxy wetting the top of the hole, with the pin driven in while it's still wet is still my first choice. In any case, the important thing is getting as much of your goop of choice into the cap grain as close to the surface as possible. Depth of penetration down the pin is of little to no importance, but solidity of the termination at the top is primary. Ron N
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