[CAUT] bridge cap sanding

[Joe And Penny Goss]

Jeff,
With the pins in, and using thinest CA, there is no excess. If one does not
apply too many times.
Two times or passes works well for me. The third pass tends to leave CA that
needs to be wiped off and that is a no win event. O(( Two passes soaks into
the wood. First pass immediately and the second after 5 minutes or so.
Joe Goss RPT
Mother Goose Tools
imatunr at srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff Farris" <Jfarris at mail.utexas.edu>
To: "College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: [CAUT] bridge cap sanding


> >>I like the idea behind epoxying the pins - no pin upward movement
> >
> >If you don't epoxy or CA them in, you'll most likely have the same
> >false beats you had before you restrung it, because you didn't fix
> >the original problem. If you do epoxy them in, you won't because you
> >did. The bridge cap will still move the strings up and *down* the
> >string some, but not quite as much as before. Strings don't stay up
> >bridge pins.
> >
> >>- but is there no concern with removing them in the future?
> >
> >They'll still pull out if you need to.
> >
> >>Otherwise, I guess you'd have to seat the bridge pins every tuning, huh?
> >>Jeff F
> >
> >No, because seating strings doesn't fix anything. The strings aren't
> >up the pins.
> >Ron N
>
>
>
> No, I actually meant the pins, not the strings, but I guess them,
> too. Anyway, I would like to CA glue them in place. Would you drive
> them in first and then add the glue (trying to not make a mess) or
> what? And what thickness.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> -- 
> Jeff Farris
> Piano Technician
> School of Music
> UT Austin
> mailto; jfarris at mail.utexas.edu
> 512-471-0158