>>No, I actually meant the pins, not the strings, but I guess them, too. > >Woops, my mistake. No, you don't ever need to seat bridge pins. It >is of no tonal consequence whether they're seated or not, and >humidity cycles will insure that they aren't seated most of the time >anyway whatever you do. All seating pins does is seat strings by >virtue of the friction between pin and string dragging the string >down into the notch edge as the pin goes down, further damaging the >notch edge. And seating strings is still a pointless and destructive >process as well. Make the pin solid at the top of the bridge cap and >all the reasons that techs feel the need to seat pins or strings go >away. > >>Anyway, I would like to CA glue them in place. Would you drive them >>in first and then add the glue (trying to not make a mess) or what? >>And what thickness. > >Using CA, if they're reasonably tight after driving them in, I'd >drive them all in and use the thin. A couple of passes, soaking in >all you can get to go in there has worked well for me. Personally, >the thought of squirting CA in a hole and chasing a pin in with a >hammer is terrifying. Any procedure combining the concepts of CA and >splash are something I want no part of. Alternately, a couple of >drops of West System epoxy wetting the top of the hole, with the pin >driven in while it's still wet is still my first choice. > >In any case, the important thing is getting as much of your goop of >choice into the cap grain as close to the surface as possible. Depth >of penetration down the pin is of little to no importance, but >solidity of the termination at the top is primary. >Ron N Got it, thanks. -- Jeff Farris Piano Technician School of Music UT Austin mailto; jfarris at mail.utexas.edu 512-471-0158
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