Hey, Jim, I think the marshmallow roast is a great idea. Bring some hot dogs, too. BUT, if the client won't go for that, the item you want is on page D-30 of your Pianotek catalog, "Broken Screw Extractor". Reminds me of an episode I had with a lovely Schubert upright (product of Belarus) several years ago. It had dowel capstans on wires, and keys made of the Russian equivalent of cottonwood. A moderately hard blow drove the capstan down into the key. Spent most of a day removing, drilling, plugging, redrilling, and reinstalling. It was a brand new piano, under "warranty". After I sent the bill, the dealer wouldn't return my phone calls and six months later the distributor decided the job was worth $100, take it or leave it. Live and learn, right? Regards, Ken Z. On 1/15/08 11:06 PM, "Jim Harvey" <harvey.pianotech at gmail.com> wrote: > This is not a CAUT matter, but I'd like to request some options OTHER > than my first couple of instincts -- those include landfill and > marshmallow roast. > > The "piano" (being overly generous) is a J Becker. Means nothing? > Okay, an approximately 10-year old Russian-made studio. First service > call, touch resistance was like that of a kitchen table. Did not > explore causes at the time. Second call followed a visit by the > grand-children, who reportedly "broke something". > > Enter Harvey, thinking broken keystick, jack saddle, or other. NOT. > One of the capstans was sheared off level with the keystick. More > investigation revealed that capstans are 1) non-standard size, > requiring a crescent wrench on the shoulder; 2) are pot metal, > complete with casting seam lines; 3) threading on screw portion are > course thread -- wood screw style; 4) screw body seems to be thinnest > at point of entry in keys. > > Even on the first call, before this experience, I had planted seeds > for a replacement piano, despite its short service life. Not sure at > the moment whether that option will be taken. You see where this is > going... > > I'm not unfamiliar with pot metal capstans, but other times I could > remove them. I can likely find appropriate replacement capstans, do > any necessary plugging and drilling, and so forth. It's dealing with > an entire set of potentially sheared off stubs that's the problem. How > can I be sure of the potential? On the obviously broken one, the > homeowner, an accomplished word-worker who builds grandfather clocks, > was going to attempt removing the stub. After he left for his shop, I > discovered the pot metal, stopped his pursuits, and let HIM try to > unscrew another capstan. It snapped off. > > A chapter member suggested killing off (breaking) the existing > capstans, and starting a line of new capstans adjacent to the old. I > don't know whether this would work, and if so, whether it might make > the touch weight even worse. I thought of nuking the existing caps > with a soldering iron, even at the expense of charring the wood, to > help removal. Somehow through all of this, I keep envisioning the > metal equivalent of a plug cutter for wood, but don't think such a > thing exists. > > Any similar experiences/solutions out there, or am I just over-reacting? -- Ken Zahringer, RPT Piano Technician MU School of Music 297 Fine Arts 882-1202 cell 489-7529
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