Hi Alan, What does "radiused" mean in this context? I know what the PIanotek one is like (have one), and would appreciate a more descriptive account of the difference. Judging from the picture, it maybe has to do with multiple cutting flutes? Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico fssturm at unm.edu On Jan 7, 2008, at 12:21 PM, Alan McCoy wrote: > Hi Don, > > The reamer you have is probably from Pianotek and if so, it is not > radiused. > Than one actually has a countersunk-type profile. The one from MSC > is truly > radiused. If you are really into polishing after reaming, a faster > way to go > (than Revenko-Jones) is with a dremel and a polishing bit you can > get from > Wigets.com. It is a teardrop shape and a pink color and feels sort > of like > an eraser. Sorry I don't have the link here at school. > > The reaming can definitely be done in the home. Hold the drill in > your hand, > and also hold the agraffe in your hand and go slowly. By doing it in > your > hands there is give and you are much less likely to chew up the > agraffe. The > whole set can be done this way very effectively - reaming and > polishing - in > maybe an hour. > > Alan > > >> From: Mark Cramer <cramer at brandonu.ca> >> Reply-To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" <caut at ptg.org >> > >> Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 12:22:39 -0600 >> To: 'College and University Technicians' <caut at ptg.org> >> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Mason & Hamlin agraffes >> >> Actually no Don, I don't recommend the drill press. The bit can >> grab and >> make a mess (take my word, or do I need to send photo? ;>) >> >> >> >> The bit will self-center in the hole, and I will suggest once more >> that the >> variable speed drill with slip clutch is the ticket. You want to >> hold the >> drill with a loose grip and light pressure, so that if the bit >> should catch, >> the impact is wasted, rather than transferred to the agraffe. >> >> >> >> i.e.: the bit needs to be able to "chatter" if necessary, to >> prevent a >> sudden calamity. >> >> >> >> So yes, you do need to remove the agraffe and be able to hold it >> flat to >> your work-surface. (my simple holding fixture works great, sorry the >> description may be a bit vague) >> >> >> >> In any case, I agree this is not a comfortable repair to do on-site. >> >> >> >> Good luck! >> >> Mark Cramer, >> >> Brandon University >> >> >> >> _____ >> >> From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf >> Of Donald >> McKechnie >> Sent: January 7, 2008 11:41 AM >> To: caut at ptg.org >> Subject: [CAUT] Mason & Hamlin agraffes >> >> >> >> Mark, David, Ron & Ric, >> >> >> >> Thanks for your replies to my questions. I just spoke to my >> customer and she >> has agreed to try replacing the strings on the note. If I can get the >> agraffe out without any fuss I will try polishing the holes as >> shown by Paul >> in the March 05 Journal. Trying to use the reamer during in home >> service >> could get a bit dicey. It needs to be perfectly still, preferably >> at a drill >> press to ream correctly. Paul's point about the reamers leaving >> striations >> is a good one. The buffing method is more work but perhaps better >> for in >> home service. We'll give it a try and hopefully this will work for >> now. She >> has not complained of other notes having this buzz but I would bet >> that will >> come up at another time. >> >> >> >> Thanks again, >> >> Don >> >> >> >> Don McKechnie >> >> Piano Technician >> >> Ithaca College >> >> dmckech at ithaca.edu >> >> 607-274-3908 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >
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