Oh yeah, if you're doing a whole set, unless you have a grip like a gorilla, you might hold the agraffe with a pair of pliers modified to hold the agraffe by the threaded stud, leather-covered to protect the threads. Alan > From: Alan McCoy <amccoy at mail.ewu.edu> > Reply-To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" <caut at ptg.org> > Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 11:21:37 -0800 > To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" <caut at ptg.org> > Conversation: [CAUT] Mason & Hamlin agraffes > Subject: Re: [CAUT] Mason & Hamlin agraffes > > Hi Don, > > The reamer you have is probably from Pianotek and if so, it is not radiused. > Than one actually has a countersunk-type profile. The one from MSC is truly > radiused. If you are really into polishing after reaming, a faster way to go > (than Revenko-Jones) is with a dremel and a polishing bit you can get from > Wigets.com. It is a teardrop shape and a pink color and feels sort of like > an eraser. Sorry I don't have the link here at school. > > The reaming can definitely be done in the home. Hold the drill in your hand, > and also hold the agraffe in your hand and go slowly. By doing it in your > hands there is give and you are much less likely to chew up the agraffe. The > whole set can be done this way very effectively - reaming and polishing - in > maybe an hour. > > Alan > > >> From: Mark Cramer <cramer at brandonu.ca> >> Reply-To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" <caut at ptg.org> >> Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 12:22:39 -0600 >> To: 'College and University Technicians' <caut at ptg.org> >> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Mason & Hamlin agraffes >> >> Actually no Don, I don't recommend the drill press. The bit can grab and >> make a mess (take my word, or do I need to send photo? ;>) >> >> >> >> The bit will self-center in the hole, and I will suggest once more that the >> variable speed drill with slip clutch is the ticket. You want to hold the >> drill with a loose grip and light pressure, so that if the bit should catch, >> the impact is wasted, rather than transferred to the agraffe. >> >> >> >> i.e.: the bit needs to be able to "chatter" if necessary, to prevent a >> sudden calamity. >> >> >> >> So yes, you do need to remove the agraffe and be able to hold it flat to >> your work-surface. (my simple holding fixture works great, sorry the >> description may be a bit vague) >> >> >> >> In any case, I agree this is not a comfortable repair to do on-site. >> >> >> >> Good luck! >> >> Mark Cramer, >> >> Brandon University >> >> >> >> _____ >> >> From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Donald >> McKechnie >> Sent: January 7, 2008 11:41 AM >> To: caut at ptg.org >> Subject: [CAUT] Mason & Hamlin agraffes >> >> >> >> Mark, David, Ron & Ric, >> >> >> >> Thanks for your replies to my questions. I just spoke to my customer and she >> has agreed to try replacing the strings on the note. If I can get the >> agraffe out without any fuss I will try polishing the holes as shown by Paul >> in the March 05 Journal. Trying to use the reamer during in home service >> could get a bit dicey. It needs to be perfectly still, preferably at a drill >> press to ream correctly. Paul's point about the reamers leaving striations >> is a good one. The buffing method is more work but perhaps better for in >> home service. We'll give it a try and hopefully this will work for now. She >> has not complained of other notes having this buzz but I would bet that will >> come up at another time. >> >> >> >> Thanks again, >> >> Don >> >> >> >> Don McKechnie >> >> Piano Technician >> >> Ithaca College >> >> dmckech at ithaca.edu >> >> 607-274-3908 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC