[CAUT] Baldwin SD-10 questions

[Ken Zahringer]

Hey, Stan,

I can offer a little insight on two of your questions.

About 6-8 years ago I got a call to fix a Baldwin console.  The glue joint
between the pinblock and the back had failed (condition discovered about 2
years after the warranty expired, ie piano built in late 1980s).  Anyway, I
removed the pins with a brace & bit rather than a power drill, so I wouldn't
glaze the hole.  I re-installed the pinblock with epoxy and restrung the
piano with 3/0 pins, no reaming.  It turned out great.  The pins were tight,
but not overly so, and smooth as they could be.  Surprised the hell out of
me. :-)  The owner has been a client ever since, and the piano still tunes
up great.  That's the only falconwood block I've done that to, so I don't
know if the results are representative, but I'd sure do the same thing again
in similar circumstances.  Given that and what I know of falconwood, I think
I would keep a block of that age, absent a obvious reason to replace it.

Some years back (right around beginning of bankruptcy) a Baldwin factory guy
gave a class at convention on stringing an Accu-Just piano.  I still have
the handout with all the procedures and specs.  If you send me an address, I
can sent you a copy.  He had two handy tools: for moving the string down on
the hitch pin, a metal (steel?, brass?) rod with a hole bored in the end
just larger than the pin - rather like a becket breaker, and for moving the
string up on the pin, a pair of modified pliers - one jaw with a small pin
that would fit inside the hitch pin, the other jaw notched to fit around the
hitch and catch the string.  Ron Nossaman would also be a good resource; he
regularly installs vertical hitch pins on the pianos he rebuilds.

Hope this helps,
Ken Z.


On 10/19/06 12:25 PM, "Stan Kroeker" <smkroeker at shaw.ca> wrote:

> Dear Colleagues,
> 
> After years of rebuilding 'every other kind of piano', I have
> recently invited a 1969 Baldwin SD-10 into my workshop.  This will be
> a first in dealing with the patented plate suspension system and the
> accujust hitch pins.  This piano suffers from several things:
> snapping tight tuning pins (I believe Baldwin has a reputation for
> this?), poor tone and 'sizzling' noises in the capo region (what are
> those machined pieces called, which bolt to the underside of the
> capo?).   I love a challenge and am in the process of studying what
> literature I can find on these unique instruments.  Several questions
> immediately spring to mind:
> 
> Although I don't normally adhere to 'hard-and-fast' rules, I learned
> long ago (the hard way) that it is generally false economy not to
> replace the pinblock when the plate is out (for soundboard and bridge
> reconditioning).  However, the pins are so tight on this piano, that
> I'm wondering if there might be merit in re-using the block, possibly
> with the same size pins?  Or, reaming for 3/0?  Not sure why I'm
> trying to talk myself out of a new block (it's in the budget anyway)
> as I particularly enjoy this process.
> 
> Secondly, those machined capo pieces appear to have a radius at the
> string contact point, quite a bit larger than other pianos.  I once
> treated the sizzling strings on this piano by tapping them sideways
> and back into position.  This nearly eliminated all noises but it
> didn't last long.  What are your feelings on grinding a smaller
> radius on these pieces or does case hardening preclude this?  The few
> times I have departed from a manufacturer's original design, it was
> only with great trepidation but a solid conviction that it was the
> only solution to the problem.
> 
> Thirdly, the question of re-stringing on accujust hitch pins.  In the
> absence of specialized tools/jigs to measure bearing I can think of
> several ways to at least get the strings back to their original
> positions on the pins (digital calipers as depth gauge?)  However,
> perhaps this is an ideal opportunity to establish uniform bearing (if
> it didn't exist previously).  Although I have the Lowell downbearing
> gauge, I find it rather cumbersome and unwieldy.  On the several
> soundboard replacements I have done, I have simply established
> bearing with a string and thickness gauges.  How about a rocker
> bearing gauge and feeler gauges?
> 
> Fourthly, the question of the plate suspension bolts.  Actually, I
> just blundered onto Nick Gravagne's article in the reprint book
> (Pinblocks and Plates) which, as most of his writing does, de-
> mystifies the process of relocating the plate.  Any additional advice
> to offer prior to teardown and subsequent re-installation?
> 
> 
> Thanks and best regards to all,
> 
> Stan Kroeker, RPT
> 
> 

-- 
Ken Zahringer, RPT
University of Missouri
School of Music