[CAUT] Baldwin SD-10 questions

Stan Kroeker smkroeker at shaw.ca
Thu Oct 19 11:25:39 MDT 2006


Dear Colleagues,

After years of rebuilding 'every other kind of piano', I have  
recently invited a 1969 Baldwin SD-10 into my workshop.  This will be  
a first in dealing with the patented plate suspension system and the  
accujust hitch pins.  This piano suffers from several things:   
snapping tight tuning pins (I believe Baldwin has a reputation for  
this?), poor tone and 'sizzling' noises in the capo region (what are  
those machined pieces called, which bolt to the underside of the  
capo?).   I love a challenge and am in the process of studying what  
literature I can find on these unique instruments.  Several questions  
immediately spring to mind:

Although I don't normally adhere to 'hard-and-fast' rules, I learned  
long ago (the hard way) that it is generally false economy not to  
replace the pinblock when the plate is out (for soundboard and bridge  
reconditioning).  However, the pins are so tight on this piano, that  
I'm wondering if there might be merit in re-using the block, possibly  
with the same size pins?  Or, reaming for 3/0?  Not sure why I'm  
trying to talk myself out of a new block (it's in the budget anyway)  
as I particularly enjoy this process.

Secondly, those machined capo pieces appear to have a radius at the  
string contact point, quite a bit larger than other pianos.  I once  
treated the sizzling strings on this piano by tapping them sideways  
and back into position.  This nearly eliminated all noises but it  
didn't last long.  What are your feelings on grinding a smaller  
radius on these pieces or does case hardening preclude this?  The few  
times I have departed from a manufacturer's original design, it was  
only with great trepidation but a solid conviction that it was the  
only solution to the problem.

Thirdly, the question of re-stringing on accujust hitch pins.  In the  
absence of specialized tools/jigs to measure bearing I can think of  
several ways to at least get the strings back to their original  
positions on the pins (digital calipers as depth gauge?)  However,  
perhaps this is an ideal opportunity to establish uniform bearing (if  
it didn't exist previously).  Although I have the Lowell downbearing  
gauge, I find it rather cumbersome and unwieldy.  On the several  
soundboard replacements I have done, I have simply established  
bearing with a string and thickness gauges.  How about a rocker  
bearing gauge and feeler gauges?

Fourthly, the question of the plate suspension bolts.  Actually, I  
just blundered onto Nick Gravagne's article in the reprint book  
(Pinblocks and Plates) which, as most of his writing does, de- 
mystifies the process of relocating the plate.  Any additional advice  
to offer prior to teardown and subsequent re-installation?


Thanks and best regards to all,

Stan Kroeker, RPT




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