Dear Colleagues, After years of rebuilding 'every other kind of piano', I have recently invited a 1969 Baldwin SD-10 into my workshop. This will be a first in dealing with the patented plate suspension system and the accujust hitch pins. This piano suffers from several things: snapping tight tuning pins (I believe Baldwin has a reputation for this?), poor tone and 'sizzling' noises in the capo region (what are those machined pieces called, which bolt to the underside of the capo?). I love a challenge and am in the process of studying what literature I can find on these unique instruments. Several questions immediately spring to mind: Although I don't normally adhere to 'hard-and-fast' rules, I learned long ago (the hard way) that it is generally false economy not to replace the pinblock when the plate is out (for soundboard and bridge reconditioning). However, the pins are so tight on this piano, that I'm wondering if there might be merit in re-using the block, possibly with the same size pins? Or, reaming for 3/0? Not sure why I'm trying to talk myself out of a new block (it's in the budget anyway) as I particularly enjoy this process. Secondly, those machined capo pieces appear to have a radius at the string contact point, quite a bit larger than other pianos. I once treated the sizzling strings on this piano by tapping them sideways and back into position. This nearly eliminated all noises but it didn't last long. What are your feelings on grinding a smaller radius on these pieces or does case hardening preclude this? The few times I have departed from a manufacturer's original design, it was only with great trepidation but a solid conviction that it was the only solution to the problem. Thirdly, the question of re-stringing on accujust hitch pins. In the absence of specialized tools/jigs to measure bearing I can think of several ways to at least get the strings back to their original positions on the pins (digital calipers as depth gauge?) However, perhaps this is an ideal opportunity to establish uniform bearing (if it didn't exist previously). Although I have the Lowell downbearing gauge, I find it rather cumbersome and unwieldy. On the several soundboard replacements I have done, I have simply established bearing with a string and thickness gauges. How about a rocker bearing gauge and feeler gauges? Fourthly, the question of the plate suspension bolts. Actually, I just blundered onto Nick Gravagne's article in the reprint book (Pinblocks and Plates) which, as most of his writing does, de- mystifies the process of relocating the plate. Any additional advice to offer prior to teardown and subsequent re-installation? Thanks and best regards to all, Stan Kroeker, RPT
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