Fred et al: I have a loop maker to make bass string style loops (I bought it when I had to string a Mason & Hamlin "A" with all those single strings in the treble). Could that make appropriate loops for the harpsichord strings? I need to put on a string in a few days. The last string I put on a harpsichord I was not proud of! dave *********** REPLY SEPARATOR *********** On 2/25/2003 at 9:44 AM Fred S. Sturm wrote: >Jim, > On the assumption you are matching double helix loops with a coil >finish (the >most common, looks like bass string hitch loops): >1) You need a fixed substitute for the hitch pin. A large cup hook mounted >to the >edge of a table works. Or a headless nail held in a vice. Whatever it is, >it needs >to be positioned so that there are no obstructions in front of it (to >allow free >movement of your hands). It should be of a large enough diameter so that >the loop >formed can easily fit over the hitch pin later. (I mostly use a cup hook >screwed >into the end of a dowel. I attach this with a spring clamp to the edge of >my cheap, >metal harpsichord tool/supply case). >2) Pull the wire around the dummy pin, so that it goes completely around >and >crosses at a right angle. You need enough "waste length" to get a good >grip. 6 to >10 inches should suffice. Hold the wire in that position with one hand - >the hand >that you will use throughout to hold the speaking length. You will need to >have >decided whether the waste length goes over or under based on the direction >you want >to the coils to go (look at one of the loops you are matching). >3) Take the hand that is not holding the wire, and place it over or under >the other >hand (depending whether the waste length is over or under the speaking >length) and >grab the waste length. Holding the wire taut with both hands, and so that >the >string forms a right angle where it meets, rotate both arms in a full >circle around >one another (easier to show than describe this sort of thing), keeping the >wire >taut and at right angle at all times, so that it actually makes clear and >sharp >bends/coils around itself (each bends around the other). If you have been >successful, you should be able to let go with one hand, and the wire will >pretty >much stay put. >4) Repeat the above as many times as needed to create the number of coils >desired. >Steady, even movement, with wire held taut at all times, and maintaining >the 90 >degree angle between wire ends, will allow for even, neat appearance. >5) For the finish coil, hold the speaking length of the wire taut with one >hand, >pulling straight toward yourself. With the other hand, pull the waste >length of >wire neatly around the speaking length. It is essential that the wire be >held taut >at all times, and a bit of finesse is needed to start the coil evenly. >Again, the >waste length hand lets go, and is moved around the speaking length hand to >grab the >waste length again. And you make as many tight, even coils as needed to >match the >original. >6) Cut the wire, leaving a short segment (match originals), which will >rest on the >hitch pin rail to help assure the coils don't unwind. It is necessary to >plan so >that the final direction of that bit of waste length is under the speaking >length. > A caution - don't overdo tightness of coils. If they are too tight, >you will >have tail breakage. But if they are not tight enough, they'll want to >unwind. You >have to use good judgment here. > >Hope this helps. If it is unclear, please say so and I'll try to explain >better. >It's much easier to demonstrate than describe. I'll also note that if you >have a >helper, you can use a dowel with a cuphook in the end. One person holds >the wire, >tautly, at a 90 degree angle, while the other rotates the dowel. With good >teamwork, this can be a very successful method of making coils (it's what >the >Hubbard manual suggests). It does require a second person. >Regards, >Fred Sturm >University of New Mexico > > >James A Busby wrote: > >> List, >> Does anyone have a website or instructions, tricks, etc. for making >hitch pin >> loops for harpsichords? My loops are functional, but they don't look >uniform and >> even. Thanks. >> >> (BTW, I know you can buy them premade, but I now have 4 harpsichords >and it >> gets expensive to buy prefabs.) >> >> Jim Busby >> BYU >> >> _______________________________________________ >> caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > >_______________________________________________ >caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives _____________________________ David M. Porritt dporritt@mail.smu.edu Meadows School of the Arts Southern Methodist University Dallas, TX 75275 _____________________________
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC