Elwood, I would like to present a slightly different take on what Duaine seems to be trying to do, something I have been doing in my own tuning. Let me preface my remarks by stating that I tune left handed. This means that I am pushing the tuning hammer as it is moving the tuning pin to sharpen the pitch, as opposed to pulling the hammer as a right handed person would do. The body mechanics are different, so I am not certain how well this technique can be adapted by a right handed person. What I do is pull the tuning pin 10 cents or so flat, then do a relatively slow push right up to the desired pitch rest point, and release it there. If I go past that point a smidgen, I can drop it down and it will be stable. Any more than that, I will put bend into the pin and it will not hold. In that case, I drop the pitch back that 10 cents or so, then push it up to the pitch point and drop it there. I have found that if my movement is accurate, I can drop the pin right on the pitch target and it will be stable. What I think is happening is that my relatively large pin movement from its lowered pitch position to the new rest point removes any twist in the pin, thereby ridding ourselves of the need to remove that twist (or suffer the effects of that associated instability). Test blows comfirm that that the pin set is durable. I have been doing this for years. You develop a feel for making this movement down and back up very accurately, and it can be a very efficient and economical movement pattern. I know that the conventional wisdom that is that the smallest movements of the pin are best for pin stability. I won't argue against the value of that as others use it. But my experience is that this method can be no less stable. Will Truitt -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Elwood Doss Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 7:13 PM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Reducing tuning time (was Re: frustrated) IF you want to keep your customers, especially those with discriminating hearing, you will be sure to set the strings and pins. Not only will strings and pins relax and go out of tune while you're tuning but often they will slowly relax and go out of tune after the piano tuner is gone. Also when the customer is playing the piano the strings can slip out of tune. Time is important, but that 10 minutes you save could cost you customers. It is tempting to pull the string up to pitch and leave it, but I would resist the temptation, especially if you want to have a lasting quality outcome. Joy! Elwood Doss, Jr. -----Original Message----- From: Duaine Hechler [mailto:dahechler at att.net] Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 5:36 PM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Reducing tuning time (was Re: frustrated) The one thing that, in my last couple of tunings, I am trying to do is to concentrate on - not - going way sharp before honing in on the unisons. I shaved off about 10 minutes, the last couple of times. Do most of you come up to pitch or go sharp then come back down? I learned to go sharp then come back down, except in the high tenor, I seem to here it better coming up to pitch. Thanks, Duaine On 01/12/2013 04:41 PM, Mike Kurta wrote: > I had my wife sew two lengths together. Voila! Now I have only > one mute strip to contend with. Length is no problem, when I put it away I fold it in half length, half again, and lay it in my case. Easy. > Mike Kurta > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Ron Nossaman <mailto:rnossaman at cox.net> > *To:* pianotech at ptg.org <mailto:pianotech at ptg.org> > *Sent:* Saturday, January 12, 2013 9:45 AM > *Subject:* Re: [pianotech] Reducing tuning time (was Re: > frustrated) > > On 1/12/2013 8:06 AM, tunerboy3 at comcast.net <mailto:tunerboy3 at comcast.net> wrote: > > > You order it like one solid piece, something like 72" or 84" long or > > so, and cut to desired length or, don't cut it at all. I ordered 6 > > or 10 of them so I could experiment with it. I wound up cutting one > > of them down the center all the way and using that one in the treble. > > I cut a strip diagonally down it's length and get two tapered lengths. > Ideal in verticals to get around the dampers in that last section where > there's no room - especially in Baldwins. A full width strip works very > well in the bass, or two of them if one leaks too much. Pearl River > passed out a terrific strip at the convention one year. Thin action > cloth sewed to buckskin (or Ecsaine, but it acts like buckskin). Best > tenor strip I've ever used in grands. I've wished I had managed to get a > couple more, but they were pretty protective of them and they wouldn't > be difficult to make when the one I have gives up the ghost. > > > > I don't now why but string spacing tends to > > be a little greater in the tenor on verticals than in the treble. > > Fan angles, I'd say. I use a narrow strip of thicker action cloth here. > Ron N > -- Duaine Hechler Piano, Player Piano, Pump Organ - Tuning, Servicing & Rebuilding (314) 838-5587 / dahechler at att.net / www.hechlerpianoandorgan.com Home & Business user of Linux - 13 years
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