Gene - That's essentially how I've been building my new bridge root doglegs - just adding laminations on the front or back of a central core of laminations to enable machining a suitable dogleg. Here are a few pics for your viewing pleasure (this particular bridge root is for demonstration purposes only - I put a lamination of mahogany in the middle of the bridge so that one can easily see how other laminations terminate at doglegs): -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0003 copy.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 76227 bytes Desc: not available URL: <https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20120910/361a789e/attachment-0003.jpg> -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0004.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 95315 bytes Desc: not available URL: <https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20120910/361a789e/attachment-0004.jpg> -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0005.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 95278 bytes Desc: not available URL: <https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20120910/361a789e/attachment-0005.jpg> -------------- next part -------------- Hope this helps. Terry Farrell On Sep 9, 2012, at 7:51 PM, Gene Nelson wrote: >> I thought of adding material to the back side of the bridge and machining >> the opposite to keep the bridge width close to original. > > That's exactly what I'd do if I was reusing the old bridge. Make sure it > will either clear the plate, or that you can grind the necessary plate > clearance. > > *** Clearance is good, no plate grinding necessary. > > > I wouldn't separate the bridge. I'd keep as much of the continuous > structure of the original as I could by scabbing the back side,with a > stack of say, 2.5-3mm slabs, shaping the new curve, recontouring the > front to parallel, and recapping the whole thing. > > > ***I have some 1/16" flat sawn maple veneer or I could cut up some denser > maple stock. I've got a back post from an old upright waiting for a new > home. Probably a good idea to quarter the stock, trim the scabbing, epoxy it > up and clamp in place. It should bend ok to match the contour at 2 to 3mm. > > Thanks, > > Gene >
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