[pianotech] missing bridle straps

[pianolover 88]

Took me about 30 minutes to install these, and less than an hour total from initial removal of the rail, to re-installation with new springs.  Way faster than the usual method and total cost was about $28. As for the original springs, I simply snipped away only what was still exposed, (coils mostly) since there was no need to remove the embedded, pressed in parts, or scrape off the felt strip. This saved a lot of time as well. Piano hammers return perfectly now, with no "hangers".

Cheers,

Terry "UniGeezer" Peterson
"Over 50, and not '2' Tired!" 
www.unigeezer.com


> From: joegarrett at earthlink.net
> To: pianotech at ptg.org
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 22:18:03 -0700
> Subject: Re: [pianotech] missing bridle straps
> 
> Terry said: 
> "Dang, too bad you can't edit after you send, lol. I did notice upon
> removing the rail, that two of those repair springs had been installed.
> I've done lots of full spring replacements, removing all the old springs
> and pressing in a new set, which I HATE! So I might just get a whole set of
> the screw in type; yeah their a lot more expensive, but much faster and
> easier to install. I know they are usually installed without removing the
> spring rail, but since I already removed it, I think maybe I'll just
> install them with the rail out, then just put it back in, as I usually do
> with the traditional press-in type. .. 
> Cheers,"
>  
> Terry,
> It's obvious you don't know the correct way to install hammer springs,
> otherwise you wouldn't even consider the screw in type.<G> In the time that
> it would take you to install those damned things, I could remove/replace
> springs/reinstall 6 sets to your one screw on type!. The real trick is to
> have a work bench, some clamps, pliers wire cutters and 2 - 1/8" rods with
> dowel handles on one end and pointed on the other.Each should span 1/2 the
> length of the spring rail. Also needed is some hot hide glue, a scraper and
> some spring rail felt. The hardest part is to remove the rail, ...use an
> off-set screw driver. Convert the rail  and thread the brackets so you can
> put the rail back on by screwing bolts through the rail into the brackets
> from the back, (damper side), of the action. Once the rail is out, pull all
> of the old springs out of the rail. Make sure the holes/slots are clear of
> glue. Clamp the rail to a bench at each "break". (small clamps..4 needed).
> Scrape all of the old hammer spring rail felt and glue off of the rail.
> Recheck the holes and/or slots that the spring tails go into/through.
> Install a new set of springs. Trim the tails and make sure they are tight
> in the holes and/or slots. Slather the spring tails with glue and install
> the new spring rail felt. Put the rail back in. Put all the springs into
> the hammer butt spring grooves. You're done. Reinstall the action and
> adjust accordingly. Should take about 2 hours total. Well worth it. 
> As for the missing bridle straps, I suspect the action is tilted towards
> the front / keys so the hammers return on their own. Check it.<G>
> Regards,
> Joe 
> 
> 
> Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
> Captain of the Tool Police
> Squares R I
> 
 		 	   		  
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