It was said: : I used a handled scraper with about a 2? scraper blade. The flat areas will scrape pretty clean quicker than you think and actually can be faster (and cheaper) than using the nasty chemicals. It takes a bit of practice to get your technique down and not gouge into the veneer, but it?s doable. Will, Simply rounding the scraper blade tips will safeguard against the "gouging". Do it wih a file or a grinder. Have one scraper w/o that treatment for getting, (carefully), into those tight corners, etc.<G> I prefer my 1" hook scraper for those jobs and I use modified Power Hacksaw blades for my major scraping jobs. Easy to use. Aggressive when needed. Does a superlative job of smoothing the surface at the same time. Easily sharpened. That's my take on that.<G> Joe *** Thanks both of you, I went out in the shop after hearing about this and brought out my nice Lie-Neilsen scraper that I reserve for poly repairs and experimented with the cheeks and bottom board. It is flexible enough to avoid touching the veneer with the edges. It really works nicely as stated (I keep it really sharp) but it is not a rigid tool - it will work good for the tight corners however but I do not want to modify it. I need a different scraper for the broader areas. Off to the hardware store. Gene
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