Wim, I agree with Paul and also Joe. I have two additional helpful tips. I made a sampler of colors using an old ivory tail piece. I ground 5 notches in it and filled them with varying amounts of the white and yellow colored powder mixes. 3:1, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, 1:3. this gives you a palate to compare to your ivory to color match. This is similar to what a dentist will do when matching a tooth. Second, I find the biggest problem is the acrylic mix will slump when applied on the overhang of the key. I first tried folding tape at a 90 degree and making a dam under the overhang. That worked fair. I now have a piece of 1/8 inch thick polyethylene that I got from Smallparts.com.It resists the acrylic so it does not stick at all. On the table saw, I cut pieces the width of the key and 1/2 inch long in the other dimension. I also slightly beveled one edge that goes between the ivory and the facing nitrocellulose on the front edge of the key. This allows some acrylic to get under the ivory for a little extra support. Mostly though, the real advantage is it make a nice dam to apply the acrylic. With this. I have replaced the entire overhang on a key in one shot. It makes the job so much easier. I did 40 keys on one Steinway for an owner who would not give up the ivories. I got a good color match and it is hard to tell. I do the sanding with the foam filled fine side of the fingernail that is included with the kit. . Then I use 2000 grit wet or dry and final finish with White Diamond polish. This give a great shine to the ivories. Use the white Diamond on all of the keys and the owner will love it. They look like new. Doug Gregg Classic Piano Doc Message: 7 Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 12:26:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul McCloud <pmc033 at earthlink.net> To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] ivory keytop repair Message-ID: <29707526.39.1345663564071.JavaMail.javamailuser at localhost> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Hi, Wim I've done some ivory repair with Acrylikey. Works well, smelly fumes tho. What do you need to know? I have a few things I can say about the procedure. I use a magnifier so I can really see. I use a razor blade to bevel all the edges. I use the supplied dropper to put the liquid in the cup and add the powder to it until it gets thick, but not too thick. The liquid flashes off quickly, so I start it off a little wet, and as I dab it on the ivory it gets thicker. You can also put some tape over the front to prevent it dripping down. When the plastic gets solidified, but before fully hard, use a razor blade to trim it. Much easier than sanding a bunch off. If you have voids or pockets, just mix some more and dab it on. Let it sit while you do the next one. I don't try to mix too much at one time. New batch for each key. Tedious, but it works. When the plastic is fully hard, use the nail files to sand down and finish. You can also buff the keys after, but be careful. Good luck. Paul McCLoud San Diego
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