Thanks Nick, Those are the important details. Gene ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nicholas Gravagne" <ngravagne at gmail.com> To: <pianotech at ptg.org> Sent: Friday, February 04, 2011 1:28 PM Subject: Re: [pianotech] Bridge pin locations help (image oops) > Hi Gene, > >>I believe that I learned it from Nick Gravagne.< > > Probably from a class a gave about 100 years ago in the bay area. > > Gene, although I don't see Keith doing this repair, I wanted to flesh > out your post: > > I have used this procedure a number of times, but usually where the > front notch is in terrible shape. Like when well-meaning techs pull > bridge pins so as to "re-notch" and in the process yank out small bits > of dead wood which had existed between the pins:( > > I have thus plugged for one pin, or two, or all three pins using this > procedure. A small and simple pattern is sometimes required so as to > re-locate (or improve upon) the original pin holes upon the glued-in > and trimmed down plug. Of course, holes must cleanly punched then > angle-drilled using (most likely) a hand held 3/8" electric drill. > > 1) Forstner bits work best (or only work well at all) when the center > spur bites into something. When doing this repair first plug the > bridge pin hole/s with a glued in dowel ( and let dry) or else tight > fitting shoe pegs; give the spur something to bite and then bring on > the Forstner. > > 2) Drill down with the Forstner at least 3/8" deep. Typical size > Forstners have been 3/8" and 1/2". > > 3) I prefer for the plug to be quarter-sawn maple, but the choice is > yours. Before cutting the plug out of the mother board, pay attention > to the board's grain rise and fall so as to avoid tear out when > chiseling the plug flat and also when notching. Then be sure to > orient the top of the plug grain to match the existing grain > orientation in the bridge cap, which more or less runs parallel > (usually) with the front and back edges of the bridge. > > 4) Epoxy is not required as any good fast drying glue will work. I > prefer a good gap glue such as Garrett Wades gap filling, fast drying > glue for stuff like this. > > 5) After chiseling and sanding the plug flat, Dag the plug and local > bridge top area before you punch, notch and pin (level pins if you > like). Finish the newly cut notch with varnish or some fast-drying > finish. > > 6) Chisel/s must be very sharp! > > 7) Practice this repair with maple scraps before you bring it > online. It's not hard, but unless you have the skill and feeling for > this work, better to check into spring training first. > > See photos for some of this. I didn't have time to re-size these > photos to fit inside the text box, so you will have to open them > individually. > > Nick > > > On Fri, Feb 4, 2011 at 10:32 AM, Gene Nelson <nelsong at intune88.com> wrote: >> Keith, >> Here is one option to consider. >> I did an in home repair once that worked for a bridge/unison that was in >> need of more help than yours. >> Just removed the strings, then removed the bridge pins on the speaking >> side >> of the offending note. Then centered a forsner bit over the bridge pin >> holes >> and notch, then drilled into the bridge root. Filled the hole with a >> Dilignit plug - epoxied it in. Then trimmed the plug flat to the bridge >> cap >> with a chisel, drilled new bridge pin holes and carved a new notch, >> inserted >> new bridge pins . Acton Dag hid the bulk of the repair. Worked just fine >> and >> not very difficult. >> I believe that I learned it from Nick Gravagne. >> Gene >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mr. Mac's" >> <tune-repair at allegiance.tv> >> To: <pianotech at ptg.org> >> Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2011 5:32 PM >> Subject: [pianotech] Bridge pin locations help (image oops) >> >> >
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