Steven,
With regard to your bridge pin question. I suggest this. Drill out the original hole with a drill bit -- usually a numbered drill bit -- to that size that is just under the size of the replacement pin, which shall be just over the size of the original pin. When drilling out the holes, do not use an electric drill motor, use a pin vise and carefully drill by hand, paying close attention to the original angle of attack. The selection of the drill bit is important so arm yourself with a set of numbered drills. Commence this task on the back row of bridge pins first. If you make a mistake your error will be less evident. Once you are confident of your work proceed to the front row. Note: the drilling is done after you have lightly sanded down the top of the bridge cap to reduce the depth of the string grooves, corrected any notching errors and applied Dag. Remember, you want a clean, well defined termination for the string -- no notches in front of, or back of, the pin holes. You are now ready to drive in the pins. A common mistake of bridge pin insertion is the inability to drive them in straight -- widening the top of the hole is counter productive to installing new bridge pins, as you want the pin to fit tight at the top of the hole as well as the bottom. To accomplish this you will need to make yourself a "bridge pin" driver. This is simply a 1/4" x 1-1/2" drill rod with a hole drilled in the end about 3/8" deep. This will enable you to insert the pin in the hole and drive it in straight without the fear of hitting it with a glancing blow with the hammer. Actually a pair of 2 punches with different hole depths is best -- one for the initial drive and the other for the final setting.
This method of bridge pin replacement is, I feel, best as you eliminate the mess of "adhesive flow" which can destroy your well defined string termination. Also you eliminate the adhesive interface that can contribute to energy refection.
I commend you for taking a comprehensive approach to re-stringing. We've all seen the re-stringing jobs where no attention is paid to the restoration of the string termination. Ulrch Gerhart from Steinway of London once said that he can notice a deterioration of the sound of a new piano in as little as five years. I believe the string termination is a major contributor to this.
Roger Gable
P.S. If you wish to incorporate this method and you don't have access to a lathe to make your "bridge pin" driver, let me know I can make you a set quickly on my lathe.
----- Original Message -----
From: William Monroe
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Steinway Agraffe Size
Hi Steven,
On Sun, Sep 19, 2010 at 11:34 AM, Steven Hopp <hoppsmusic at hotmail.com> wrote:
Hello,
1. I need to order agraffes for a Steinway M. I know they are 1/4" size but do I need to order the Wide style offered?
Look at the string diameters you have and look at the current string spacing of the lowest bichords. That will tell you. You don't want to have the lowest bichords so close that they rattle, or that damping is inefficient. Order a half-dozen wide-spaced bichord agraffes, it's good to have some on hand anyway.
2. Also, what paint color and where can I purchase it to respray the plate of this piano?
Some folks use Mohawk, which is good stuff. I use Walter Wurdack. They supply the lacquers for S&S NY, and you can buy direct from them. They sell the Steinway gold and clear top-coat in aerosol cans, which if you're only doing one-off refinishing of plates is certainly adequate.
3. Does Steinway drill the treble bridge all one size. I took several sample measurements but just wanted to be sure. My measures tell me yes.
If your measurements tell you yes, then, yes. If you're not recapping, just measure what's there and replace with the same, using epoxy as driving fluid. You can either use a little and wipe up any squeeze out with acetone and q-tips (or whatever you like) or use a lot and coat the whole cap in epoxy. I use nylon panty hose to shoe shine the cap with all the epoxy squeeze out, then after it cures, shoot it with a clear top-coat. If you do this, use West-System epoxy and don't use a lot of pressure shoe-shining the top. It can remove the DAG (assuming you use it).
4. This piano had size 3/0 tuning pins, is that original? I expected them to be size 2/0.
Doubtful. Should be 2/0. If they're already 3/0 and you're repinning, I would recommend a new block (assuming that's not what you've already chosen to do). 4/0 pins are yucky. ;-]
William R. Monroe
Thanks for the help.
Steven Hopp
Midland, TX
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20100919/133087c1/attachment-0001.htm>
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC